As a refreshing departure from the fashion films, most of the labels from the couture calendar made their way back to the runway. From Schiaparelli’s dramatised opening of the fashion week to Chanel’s equestrian princess taking over the catwalk – it’s safe to say there was no dearth of impactful moments. This season’s offerings ranged from clean cuts to ostentatious constructions, here are our top 10 moments.
Daniel Roseberry’s Spring/Summer 2022 couture collection for Schiaparelli was all about bringing out his artistry even sans the colour and volume. A line of just black and gold – most of the garments were intelligently constructed with metal/brass structures moulded into the silhouette. This exaggerated glittering coat-style dress was the pièce de résistance in his presentation.
Taking inspiration from Rome yet again, Kim Jones’ Spring/Summer 2022 couture collection for Fendi is his love letter to the Eternal City. Encapsulating the architectural marvels and the celestial beauty of the land through his detailed designs of evening gowns and dresses. The long-and short, sculpted-yet-fluid outfits with botanical creepers strategically placed across the outfit showcased Kim’s craftsmanship that he is popularly known for.
3. Jean Paul Gaultier
In an attempt to honour Jean Paul Gaultier’s indomitable legacy, the current chief of the house, Glenn Marten built of his vision of celebrating women and their goddess-like form. Playing risqué with construction, Marten’s idea of fashion and couture takes you an escapist world where everything is extra and larger-than-life. The opulent apricot gown, with a multitude of waves forged with the fabric looked dreamy and straight out of a fashion fantasy.
With his latest collection, Anatomy of Couture, Pierpaolo Piccioli broke the stigma around elitism in couture and opened the arena for real women with real bodies to envision themselves in his sartorially rich creations. As for the ensembles, Piccioli managed to create the magic yet again by emphasising more on the design and the detail than the surface ornamentations. The lavender gown with tulip-styled gathered hem and multiple bow details on the bodice is one of the leading contenders amongst the red carpet outfits we’d like to see this season.
Staying true to the authentic Chanel identity, Virginie Viard added a dose of freshness to the regular tweed pantsuits with feather and fringe. With minimal layering and classic lady-like tailoring, Chanel this season was all about adding a touch of spring with 3D floral embroidery, sheer panels and texturing. The multi-coloured turtle-neck cropped top with a draped skirt bearing a giant bow was the latest inclusion in the otherwise trademark silhouettes.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s strength lies in craftsmanship – with each season, she perfectly encapsulates this. The space of her show was converted into the garden of the Musée Rodin through embroidered tapestries created by Madhvi and Manu Parekh from Chanakya, the school of crafts in India. an organisation Chiuri has consistently worked with. Complementing the set up, Chiuri’s couture designs were minimalistic yet statement-making, just like the halter A-line gown with an intricately embellished bodice.
7. Ronald van der Kemp
Bringing fun back to fashion – Ronald van der Kemp’s campy collection is a work of art. Made out of waste materials and scraps, – van der Kemp’s designs are a testimony to the fact that sustainability does not have to look basic and boring. Fashion can be frolic without being mindless. The hand-painted gown with elevated shoulders was the show-stopping attire in his colourful and flamboyant collection.
8. Alexandre Vauthier
Art Deco by Alexandre Vaultier plays heavily with the bias technique, something the designer hadn’t toyed much with before. Debunking the feminine and elegant theme otherwise followed during the couture week, Vaultier’s ’80s-inspired silhouettes were modern with a side of edge. Case in point: the multiple side-slit bearing emerald green sequin dress with matching boots – heavily prescribed for the fashion risk-takers.
9. Zuhair Murad
Besides the heavenly gowns and form-flattering bejewelled dresses Zuhair Murad is known for, the designer presented an array of new silhouettes through his Spring/Summer couture 2022 collection. While Zuhair’s brides have always been the traditionalist, there is now room for those who’d like to walk down the aisle in the faded pink encrusted co-ord set layered with diaphanous tulle.
10. Viktor & Rolf
Inspired by the old-school Dracula from Hollywood, Viktor & Rolf’s couture presentation took elevation of the shoulders to a whole new level. This is for the non-conformist fashion connoisseurs living for that one dramatic moment. The finale ensemble is for the bizarre and bold bride – dropped down skirt, broad belt and a wings for sleeves in the form of pleated shoulder sheds.
For more on Paris Couture Week, tap here.