Dubai Fashion Week Embraces A Craft-Led Approach To Design

Dubai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 got off to a flying start with designers celebrating their ethnic roots while reimagining of-the-moment styles. It's seemingly evident that the new-age corset is the new blouse. Corsetry was a major trend seen across designers, who recontextualised it in their respective handwritings.

Indian designer Krèsha Bajaj made her international debut with her The Archive of Hidden Things collection, which combined storytelling, meticulous craftsmanship, and sustainable design. Known for her maximalist bridal and evening wear designs, the designer translated her narrative style into ready-to-wear pieces that reconciled art and function. Upbeat and sassy, Bajaj's collection drew inspiration from her own personal style, private collections, and surreal architecture.

Screen scorcher Samantha Prabhu and Bajaj's longtime friend and client sat on the front row in a midnight blue piece crafted by the designer. Another highlight of the fashion week was Fioletowy's (founded by engineer-turned-designer from Bengaluru – Samatha Chandrashekar) collection, Elevation. Handcrafted entirely in India from pure silk, the 30-look showcase featured layered panels, asymmetrical tailoring, and cascading ruffles, inspired by the metaphor of climbing staircases. The design house, known for blending global influences, offered a craft-led approach to designs and monochromatic hues – from sculpted black figure-skimming noir creations to evening jackets to minis accented with poet sleeves to bold colour-block striped dresses with floor-grazing trains. Lisa Haydon turned showstopper in a trapeze-shaped voluminous pale blue dress, looking like a bird of paradise.

All in all, designers across the board proposed glittering evening wear embroidered with crystals, sequins and other surface texturing. Malaysian luxury fashion brand Rizman Ruzaini borrowed inspiration from the rainforests of Southeast Asia, serving some look-at-me evening creations and instantly desirable menswear pieces like a hand-embroidered tailcoat. Also worth mentioning is Emirati designer Heba Jasmi's Born to Rise collection, which redefined femininity through elegant details, fluid lines, and designs that reflect Arab heritage with a contemporary twist. Dubai Fashion Week, the official fashion event of Dubai, was organised by Dubai Design District, part of TECOM Group, in collaboration with the Arab Fashion Council.

Key Trends That Emerged

Statement Headgear

Krèsha Bajaj rooted for oversized and fringed hats and veils this season. Tactile and fluid, the hats complemented the tasselled and fringed hemlines. Decidedly high drama and unapologetic, the head-to-toe fringed ensembles would look absolutely fabulous on a playful bridesmaid attending a destination wedding bash or a red-carpet event. Fioletowy's showcase also majorly featured fascinators and headgear, complementing the evening gowns and dresses. “Headgear were a key part of our theme Elevation. While some garments carried layered details inspired by staircases, the headpieces were designed to give a heightened, elevated look,” shared designer Chandrashekar while speaking to ELLE India.

Corset Is The New Evening Essential

Corsetry was a key trend which emerged across brands and most prominently at Krèsha Bajaj. The designer herself took a bow in a corseted look after her showcase. “I have always been obsessed with corsets, so I feel they can easily eclipse a traditional blouse,” shared Bajaj in an interaction with ELLE India. Some of Fioletowy's fit-and-flare floor-length numbers were marked by a structured bodice with prominent corset darts. “The darts give structure, strength and elegance to the silhouette, and that’s exactly what Fioletowy is all about,” quipped Chandrashekar.

Go Bold Or Go Home

Malaysian fashion house Rizman Ruzaini's RIMBA collection drew its inspiration from the lush rainforests of Southeast Asia, reflecting the serenity of plants, the vitality of wildlife, and the strength of the Malayan tiger. The collection featured dark green hues, earthy tones, bold details, and intricate embroidery that reflected the diversity of the tropical environment. Erick Bendaña, one of the most influential designers in Latin America, unveiled his SS26 couture collection The Sun and The Moon, a cosmic journey exploring light and shadow, masculine and feminine, and the eternal dance between day and night. Radiant golden gowns evoked the blazing energy of the sun, while ethereal silver creations reflected the mystique of the moon, culminating in celestial designs adorned with constellations.

Heritage-Inspired Embroideries

Emirati designer Heba Jasmi showcased an array of sculptural silhouettes, extrapolating sophisticated colours including gold, desert coral, light green, and midnight navy, embodying the image of a woman who imposes her presence with calm and elegance. Details varied between delicate floral embroidery, crystal-studded edges, and multiple layers of organza, along with flowing cuts that highlight the beauty of the figure. The collection was a harmonious visual dialogue between Arab heritage and international touches in the world of haute couture.

Sustainable Ethos

Bajaj emphasised her commitment to sustainable design through limited production, the use of responsibly sourced fabrics, and the upcycling of scrap materials to create unique accessories that enhance the collection's sustainability. Fioletowy, too, with its blend of artisanal craftsmanship, sustainable practices, and bold design language, marked a powerful new chapter for the globally celebrated Indian label on the Middle Eastern stage. “For us, sustainability means embracing slow fashion, valuing time, not wasting fabrics and working only with luxury textiles that last,” shares Chandrashekar.

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