ELLE Weaves: Anita Dongre’s Vaana Is A Quiet, Crafted Ode To Nature

Tucked away in the green hills of Navi Mumbai, a forest quietly shaped what would become one of Anita Dongre’s most considered collections to date. For Spring/Summer 2025, Anita Dongre steps away from the noise and turns to stillness. ‘Vaana ', her latest collection, is built around the idea of calm, of nature in slow motion, of forests in bloom, of the kind of beauty that doesn’t try too hard. It's a shift in tone that feels deliberate, especially in a fashion season full of bold statements.

“I was inspired by the forests that surround our Navi Mumbai headquarters,” Dongre says. “The collection draws from their quiet rhythm, soft textures and natural grace.” That influence shows up in every part of the collection—from hand-sketched botanical motifs to fabrics that move with ease.

The Process: Slow And Structured

The making of Vaana follows a thoughtful, step-by-step rhythm. It begins with sketching out motifs inspired by the surrounding nature, which eventually evolve into hand-rendered motifs of leaves, delicate vines, wildflowers and small blooms. These are turned into swatches, which are then developed through sampling, pattern-making, and dyeing. Once the design direction is locked in, the pieces moved on to embroidery and stitching. Skilled artisans, some of whom Dongre has worked with for over two decades, stepped in to apply gota patti work and hand-paint traditional pichhwai art onto each garment. The Pichhwai—a centuries-old Rajasthani art form typically seen in temple murals, is scaled down and reimagined for soft, wearable occasion-wear. Instead of rigid panels, these artworks flowed with the fabrics, wrapping subtly around hems, dupattas and blouse backs like natural patterns spreading across stone.

Gota patti too is dialled down and used with control to highlight, not overwhelm. Every sequin, stitch and metallic border is placed intentionally, to complement the softness of the silhouettes. This embroidery work is carried out both at Dongre’s atelier and through her long-standing collaborations with craft clusters in Rajasthan, keeping the production local and artisan-led.

The final garments were assembled in-house—stitched, finished, and inspected with an eye on craftsmanship as much as wearability. Nothing rushed, nothing overworked. The goal is simple: clothing that feels personal, purposeful, and quietly luxurious.

Fabric First

The fabric choices lean into comfort and ease: soft silks, light chiffons, airy organzas. These are pieces made for movement which are also ideal for warm-weather weddings, daytime celebrations, or any event that calls for style without the weight.

“The idea was to create clothing that’s festive but still breathable,” Dongre explains. “Something you can wear through long summer days, without feeling like you’re carrying too much.”

The Palette And Motifs

The colour story stays close to nature that includes muted greens, pale blush tones, soft ivories. It’s not a flashy palette, but that’s the point. These colours are meant to feel fresh, seasonal, and quietly celebratory. The motifs follow suit: minimalist floral details, winding vines, and micro-leaves that echo the natural surroundings of Dongre’s workspace.

“There’s beauty in restraint,” she says. “These motifs reflect a kind of quiet resilience that nature teaches us.”

Sustainability As A Standard

Sustainability isn’t a new talking point for the brand, it’s something baked into the everyday. From responsibly sourced fabrics to a conscious reduction of production waste, the processes behind ‘Vaana’ mirror the collection’s calm aesthetic. Even the workspace where it was born—a green-certified building in Rabale surrounded by natural views, is designed to lower the brand’s environmental footprint.

Dongre has also worked closely with craft clusters in Rajasthan, supporting artisan communities through direct employment and long-term collaboration. “Craft is the soul of our brand,” she says. “Working with artisans isn’t just about technique, it’s about building something lasting.”

‘Vaana’ doesn’t chase trends or rely on spectacle. Instead, it sits in a quieter space, built on skill, subtlety, and a real sense of place. In a season full of noise, that clarity stands out.

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