For Spring Summer Couture 2026, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna take a different direction. Instead of leaning into the brightness usually associated with the season, Abyssal looks at depth, stillness, and the way light behaves beneath the surface.
Inspired by the ocean floor, where colour recedes and structure reveals itself gradually, the collection centres on sculpted silhouettes, mineral tones, and layered translucency. As with their signature aesthetic, architecture and precision remain at the forefront, but this season the mood is quieter, more restrained, and deeply controlled.
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ELLE: What sparked the idea for Abyssal?
Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna (RGRK):Abyssal began with a feeling of depth, stillness and wanting to explore what lies beneath. I was thinking about the ocean floor and how light doesn’t behave the way it does above the surface, where colour fades and form reveals itself gradually. That sense of discovering structure slowly felt incredibly relevant to couture.
ELLE: How did you translate the mystery and stillness of the ocean floor into silhouettes and structure?
(RGRK): We were careful not to approach the ocean literally. There are no obvious motifs or references. Instead, we translated the idea of depth through layering and contouring. The layers, translucency and the controlled shimmer create an atmosphere around the body rather than overpowering it. That's exactly what the modern bride wants, not a spectacle but a strong presence.
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ELLE: Spring Summer is usually associated with colour and light. What made you lean into deeper tones and restraint?
(RGRK): Spring is often associated with brightness, but we weren't interested in surface optimism. We consciously leaned towards quiet light, the kind that diffuses rather than shines. Deeper mineral tones allowed us to focus on contour, texture, and atmosphere. Sometimes restraint feels more powerful than excessive use of colour.
ELLE: Can you talk about the craftsmanship behind this collection?
(RGRK): The layering was technically demanding. When you work with translucency, there is nowhere to hide. Every seam, every contour must be precise because it is visible through the garment. The surface treatments, the pearls, unusual crystal shapes and tonal embroidery had to feel embedded rather than applied. That balance required patience.
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ELLE: How do you see occasionwear evolving for today’s modern clientele?
(RGRK): We believe occasion wear today is less about proving something and more about personal expression. What has truly shifted is intention. The modern client is secure in their identity and isn't seeking validation or chasing trends. Even for pre-wedding and cocktail occasions, they are investing in pieces that feel timeless and impeccably made rather than momentarily relevant. There is a deeper appreciation now for refinement, for precision in construction and quiet nuance over overt drama.
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With Abyssal, the designers continue their long-standing approach to refined, structured occasionwear, but with an even stronger sense of restraint. The technical layering, embedded surface detailing, and tonal palette reflect a client who values intention over excess. As they point out, modern occasionwear is no longer about spectacle or proving a point — it is about personal expression and confidence. In that sense, Abyssal feels aligned with the moment: composed, precise, and designed to last beyond a single event.
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