The Anarkali Isn’t Back; It Was Never Gone

Once upon a Bollywood era, the anarkali wasn’t just a silhouette, it was a cultural moment. It twirled through grand song sequences, framed dramatic close-ups, and became shorthand for romance, rebellion and royalty all at once. From Mughal-e-Azam to the 2000s wave of period-inspired glamour, the anarkali dominated the screen, its sweeping flare doing as much storytelling as the script itself. Over time, it quietly stepped back from centre-stage cinema, but it never really left. It simply moved closer to home, into weddings, festivals, family functions and wardrobes built for real life rather than the silver screen.

Karisma Kapoor’s latest appearance in a Ritu Kumar anarkali feels like a knowing nod to that enduring legacy. She isn’t resurrecting the silhouette for spectacle; she’s reminding us why it mattered in the first place. In an age of hyper-embellishment and fleeting trends, her look offers something far more interesting: continuity.

Dressed in a soft beige anarkali, Kapoor taps into a Mughal Begum aesthetic that values grace over grandeur. The silhouette is classic, structured at the bodice and flowing into a fluid, flared skirt, but subtly reworked for the present. A jacket-style construction through the upper half adds architectural clarity, giving the garment a composed, modern line. It’s ceremonial without being costume-like, elegant without feeling distant.

The sheer tulle dupatta adds an almost conversational lightness to the ensemble, drifting alongside the anarkali rather than competing with it. This balance between structure and softness is what gives the look its quiet authority. It doesn’t rely on drama; it trusts the form.

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The embroidery is restrained yet richly thoughtful. Executed in fine resham threads, the motifs draw from nature, florals and foliage rendered in muted ambers, soft olives and brushed golds. There’s no high-shine excess here, just detail that reveals itself slowly. It’s the kind of craftsmanship that rewards attention, much like the anarkali itself. A gently scooped back introduces a modern sensuality, ensuring the look feels lived-in rather than preserved.

Chanderi silk forms the foundation of the outfit, and its choice is no accident. Lightweight, breathable and delicately lustrous, the fabric has long been favoured for its ability to move with the body and the climate. It’s practical, yes, but also poetic. The kind of textile that understands Indian celebrations aren’t brief affairs, and comfort is a form of luxury.

While Bollywood may no longer centre the anarkali in cinematic fantasy, its relevance hasn’t dimmed. It lives on in our wardrobes, in moments that matter, in outfits chosen for meaning rather than trend. Karisma Kapoor’s look is a reminder that some silhouettes don’t fade, they evolve. The anarkali didn’t exit the spotlight; it simply learned how to stay timeless.

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