How Apala By Sumit Sawhney Is Redefining Silver Jewellery In India's Luxury Market

There’s no denying the dominance of gold in Indian jewellery—long revered as a symbol of wealth, status, and tradition. But silver is now staging a quiet revolution. No longer confined to tribal aesthetics or everyday wear, silver jewellery in India is being reimagined as a medium of luxury and innovation. At the forefront of this evolution is Sumit Sawhney, the visionary behind Apala by Sumit Sawhney. His work fuses Indian cultural heritage with contemporary design, positioning silver not just as a precious metal, but as a powerful storytelling tool.

With a bold creative voice and a sculptural approach to adornment, Sawhney has created a design language that celebrates mythology, nature, and global art movements—crafting luxury silver jewellery that resonates with emotion and individuality. ELLE India speaks with the designer about the rise of silver in India’s luxury space, the emotionality of making, and his recently opened Apala boutique in Mehrauli, Delhi.

ELLE: Silver hasn’t traditionally been viewed as a ‘luxury’ metal. Yet your pieces clearly challenge that. What’s your approach?

Sumit Sawhney (SS): Silver has long held symbolic and ritualistic importance in Indian culture, but it has often been relegated to craft or tribal categories—rarely acknowledged as a material worthy of high design. I’ve always wanted to change that perception. During my training with a German master craftsman, I was taught the difference between craft and fine craftsmanship. Silver, to me, is a medium that allows boundless experimentation. I can patinate, oxidise, enamel, engrave, and sculpt it in ways that gold doesn’t always permit. It liberates the imagination.

I often incorporate precious and semi-precious gemstones into my silver creations, crafting intricate filigree, architectural latticework, and textured forms. These are not mere accessories—they are heirlooms in the making. In fact, many of my clients, including Indian brides, now choose silver bridal jewellery not out of rebellion, but out of a desire for storytelling and authenticity. That, to me, is true luxury—not defined solely by material value, but by the depth of craftsmanship and cultural resonance.

Silver, to me, is a medium that allows boundless experimentation. I can patinate, oxidise, enamel, engrave, and sculpt it in ways that gold doesn’t always permit. It liberates the imagination.

ELLE: How does your new store help people experience silver jewellery, and how does it reflect your vision?

Sumit Sawhney (SS): With nearly two decades in the design space, I’ve always wanted to build something more immersive than a traditional jewellery store. The Apala flagship boutique in Mehrauli is that vision brought to life. It’s a curated, experiential environment—a cross between a gallery, a concept store, and a cultural space. I see silver jewellery as a living material, one that holds memory and metamorphosis. This boutique allows people to step into my creative world, where music, sculpture, books, and textures contribute to the storytelling.

Influences from Delhi’s heritage are subtly woven into the design—like sandstone pedestals inspired by the Qutub Minar and a hand-beaded façade that feels both artisanal and architectural. This space is designed for collectors, connoisseurs, brides, fashion thinkers, and those who appreciate the artistry behind handcrafted jewellery. It’s not merely a retail outlet—it’s a sanctuary for those drawn to the spiritual and artistic dimensions of adornment.

My inspirations range from ancient Indian seals, Mughal craftsmanship and temple art to movements like the European Renaissance, Bauhaus, and Art Deco. What drives me is the idea of cultural memory—how you distill something ancient into a form that feels relevant today.

ELLE: Your designs blend cultural heritage with modern techniques. How do you strike that balance, and are there cultural references you return to often?

SS: My practice is deeply rooted in the exploration of India’s vast cultural history—but always through a contemporary lens. I don’t define myself strictly as a jewellery designer; I’m also a sculptor, a revivalist, and a collector of stories. My inspirations range from ancient Indian seals, Mughal craftsmanship and temple art to movements like the European Renaissance, Bauhaus, and Art Deco. What drives me is the idea of cultural memory—how you distill something ancient into a form that feels relevant today. Every piece is an act of fusion—of time, geography, and spirit. By using silver as my primary medium, I’m able to bring these narratives into form in a way that is both rooted and radical.

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ELLE: Is there a particular piece that encapsulates your approach to storytelling in jewellery?

SS: Yes—one of the most evocative pieces I’ve created is The Enchanted Forest, a jewellery terrarium exhibited recently. It featured a fantastical landscape populated by hand-sculpted silver creatures—peacocks, lions, serpents—each rendered with aged patina, enamel detailing, and symbolic intent. Rather than functioning as a traditional collection, it served as a poetic environment—an installation that invited viewers to engage with myth, nature, and narrative in equal measure. It’s this fusion of material and meaning that lies at the core of my design language.

ELLE: Your technical expertise is evident. But how do you ensure each piece retains its emotional resonance?

SS: For me, jewellery is not just ornamental—it’s devotional. The entire process, from the first sketch to the final polish, is an act of offering. There’s something sacred in making—whether it’s the choice of material or the final touch that brings a piece to life. I always ask myself: does this design speak to the wearer’s soul? That emotional connection is what transforms jewellery from an object into an experience. It’s what allows a piece to carry meaning across generations.

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ELLE: Celebrities often wear your pieces. What do their choices say about the connection between fashion and personal identity?

SS: It’s always a privilege to see celebrities and cultural icons embrace Apala. But what excites me most is when the piece becomes an extension of their personality—not just a trend. My designs aren’t created to dictate style; they’re meant to amplify individuality. When a wearer brings their own story to a piece, it creates a synergy between maker and muse. That’s when jewellery transcends fashion—it becomes personal, powerful, and iconic.

ELLE: You’ve recently introduced sculptural pieces to your practice. How has that medium expanded your creative vocabulary?

SS: Sculpture has given me the freedom to expand motifs beyond the wearable and into the spatial. What once sat delicately on the wrist or neck can now command an entire room. I use Indian stones, brass, reclaimed materials—and apply traditional techniques like repoussé, granulation, and patination to give each piece depth and dimension. The transition has helped me think more expansively about scale, placement, and the way art interacts with space. Whether it’s a bespoke silver necklace or a standalone sculpture, the core remains the same: storytelling through form.

With a philosophy that bridges the sacred and the avant-garde, Sumit Sawhney is placing silver jewellery in India firmly on the luxury map. Through Apala, he’s crafting not just adornments, but modern heirlooms—each imbued with cultural depth, craftsmanship, and emotion. In a market long dominated by gold, silver is finally having its moment—and in Sawhney’s hands, it gleams with possibility. 

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