A day after her 2nd presentation at the New York Fashion Week, Kanika Goyal woke up to embrace the calm after a storm. The Delhi-based designer sounded relieved (of course!) and still reeling (obviously) from all the excitement that came with showcasing her latest collection, ‘Starseed’. “The show is over but the energy and the vibe we created are still palpable. I am still in that zone and will be in it for a while,” shared the Parson-graduate as she recalled the night and how it felt like being the only representative from India at the Big Apple.
Starseed S/S 23 features mythical beings from other realities that reflect the intertwined nature of the one we identify with within our cosmos. “As the name suggests, the theme revolves around human beings being old souls and having the multiverse at their feet. It’s more about tapping into that energy and focusing on the macro viewpoints of things. It’s a futuristic collection yet it’s deeply humanised,” explains Kanika. The colours are chaotic and calming—pops of greens, blues and reds juxtaposed with
neutrals inflict a sense of joy.
Playing on the mythical mascot connotation, Kanika created exotic motifs of dragons and Jaguars plunging into alternate realities, creating a distinctive dreamscape for us through her prints. “The idea was to bring fantasies we’ve always read about to life and blurring the line between imagination and reality”. Talking about the cuts and silhouettes, deconstruction has been an integral part of the label’s DNA—continuing the integration of this signature element, deconstructed denim has been the latest addition. Y2K-inspired graphics and a subtle nod to the 70s through the silhouettes and the textures—multiple eras have been toyed with as an inspirational canvas for this line.
“30% of the collection is made from upcycled denim and repurposed fabric. Strips of scraps have been woven on a handloom together in a tedious process to create designs that are unusual and unique, but also uplift the concept of sustainability and mindful fashion. Even the accessories have been crafted out of the leftovers we find in leather factories—our ideation is based on this module and not the other way around. Upcycling is a part of our core process and integrates well with any theme we pick,” shared Kanika as we delved into the subject of doing fashion right, despite the vision and the process of storytelling.
Fluid silks, breezy cotton, light knits and jacquards offer an unrivalled summer escape. The collection mirrors a perennial positive state of mind. Presenting her eponymous label in New York is almost symbolic for the contemporary-wear designer, as she has not only studied in the fashion capital but has also kickstarted her career by working with the likes of Marchesa and Prada. Her aesthetic along with her design language has evolved since her stint in New York—Kanika no longer designs for a gender, her first priority is to evoke an emotion within the person wearing it and the ones viewing it. “I am a storyteller first, and I cannot design something unless I feel authentic about it. There has to be a larger narrative that binds the clothes together, a takeaway for anyone who invests in my design,” speaking like a true artist, Kanika concludes our conversation with an interesting thought to ponder.
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