Inside Patiala’s Resplendent Ran Baas Palace

Not long after landing in Chandigarh, I hopped into a car and began my journey to Patiala. Closer to my destination, the car wove through the narrow, buzzing Adalat Bazaar before entering the towering Darshini Deodi, the grand gateway of the 10-acre, 18th-century Qila Mubarak, the oldest Sikh fort of the Phulkian Dynasty. I arrived in a sprawling forecourt, facing the richly adorned entrance to Qila Androon, the inner palace that once housed the private quarters of Patiala’s royal family. And just to the left stood Ran Baas The Palace, a 300-year-old double-courtyard palace that was once home to the Patiala queens, now lovingly restored and transformed into a hotel.

Stepping out of the car, a red carpet was rolled out. I was welcomed with showers of rose petals, dhol beats, and a phulkari chaddar over my head. From the moment I arrived, it was all regal treatment, and I was more than ready for my princess moment.

Going Back In Time

Originally built as a mud fort in 1763 by Baba Ala Singh, Qila Mubarak became the royal nucleus of Patiala. Over time, it expanded to include Qila Androon and Ran Baas, the royal guesthouse. Successive Phulkian rulers added fortifications and opulent structures. Among them, Maharaja Narindar Singh commissioned the mirror-filled Sheesh Mahal and the grand Darbar Hall. But it was his great-grandson, the flamboyant Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, who owned 27 Rolls-Royces and commissioned the iconic Cartier Patiala necklace, that elevated Patiala’s opulence to global fame.

Post-independence, Qila Mubarak faded into neglect until the Punjab government, in partnership with Apeejay Surrendra Park Hotels and conservation architect Abha Narain Lambah, took over and began restoration in 2013. Today, Ran Baas has been revived as Punjab’s first luxury palace hotel, as a tribute to its rich, royal past of the Sikh period, melded with Mughal, Rajput and colonial elements. It boasts 610 chandeliers, high ceilings and walls made of Nanak Shahi brick masonry, decorative lime plaster work in columns, chini khanas, chhatris and jharokhas, intricately painted ceilings and sheesh mahals with reflective surfaces and gilding announcing the wealth of the Patiala kings, finely sculpted wooden balconies, carved wooden doors and spectacular garden courtyards. 

The Suite Life

Walking past the all-white grand courtyard and its central fountain, I was guided to the Luxury Suite. Bathed in seven shades of white, the room is adorned with embroidered silk textiles, mirrored and marble furniture, and silver accents—it felt like a Mughal dream. On the wall behind the bed, faded yet beautiful paintings of animals hint at the palace’s hunting legacy. The showstopper, though? A lavish bathroom with a bathtub, walk-in wardrobe, and a balcony overlooking the Darbar Hall opposite the palace, ideal for morning tea or watching children play in the evening light.

Ran Baas houses 35 suites in total, each designed differently. For instance, the Presidential Suite features a stunning play of teal and monochrome patterns, while the Premier Suite is decorated with fine miniature paintings that reflect the palace’s heritage.

Dine Like A Royal

Neel, the all-day dining restaurant, gets its name from the signature chini khana blue that colours the space that features jharokhas and live sitar music. The menu spans Punjabi classics like aloo parantha and lassi for breakfast, to tandoori prawns, kadhai murgh, and the Adalat Bazaar Chaat Box for lunch. Dinner brings in Asian and global flavours.

Don’t miss the Patiala Bar, a dramatic three-level space with velvets, brocades, and matte black interiors that offer a contrast to the palace’s soft white palette. Start with the iconic Patiala Peg (made famous by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh), then explore cocktails like Lattu (served in a hip flask and spinning top) and Gulabi Jaam, all while grooving to bangers by Diljit Dosanjh and Guru Randhawa.

For a more intimate experience, dine at the stunning Sheesh Mahal, where the mirrored walls and frescoed ceilings beautifully reflect the glow of candles. Or savour a leisurely breakfast of chole bhature with a side of champi at Rang Mahal, a hall adorned with murals depicting mythological stories of the late Mughal, Rajput, and Sikh periods. The palace’s multiple terraces offer dreamy views of Qila Androon, perfect for sunset high tea, and the Moulsari Garden is where you can dine under a 200-year-old tree. 

Side Quests Galore

After a satisfying lunch, head to Lassi Khana, once the royal kitchen, and now Aqua, a Moroccan-style courtyard with a pool and lush greenery. The Aura Spa offers indulgent treatments in vaulted rooms. Planning a wedding? Ran Baas’ grand courtyards and Darbar Hall offer an ideal setting. Shop for traditional-meets-modern jewellery at Heritage Punjab, or explore Patiala’s cultural gems—from the peaceful Gurudwara Dukh Niwaran Sahib to the historic, single-screen, Art Deco Phul Cinema, and Moti Bagh Palace, home to the National Institute of Sports, with a museum exhibiting Milkha Singh’s Onitsuka Tigers and Mohammad Ali’s signed boxing gloves. History lovers can take a short drive to Nabha Fort, currently under restoration. And don’t leave without a stroll through Adalat Bazaar, right outside the palace—perfect for picking up phulkari dupattas, juttis, jhumkis, local sweets, and tangy pickles.

Whether you’re in it for royal indulgence or rich history, Ran Baas The Palace offers a rare chance to experience the grandeur of Punjab’s regal past, something I didn’t just witness but truly felt every moment I spent there.

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