It was 5:50 am when I left for the morning game drive at Jawai, Rajasthan. Pacing through 850 million-year-old granite rocks situated along rich agrarian fields, sand rivers, scrubland and patches of light forest, the jeep finally came to a halt. “There she is—Fenela,” whispered my field guide. The bold leaopard stared at us. Unbothered by our presence, she continued to mark her territory in the bushes nearby before heading up to the rock and perching herself, looking like a majestic queen. Such are the wildlife experiences that SUJAN JAWAI promises. Nestled within a dramatic wild landscape, it is now the only Indian hotel to be featured in the World’s 50 Best Hotels 2024 list, an annual ranking of the best venues globally, at #43. 

Get Set To Take A Trip Into The Wild

My Route du Bonheur (Route of Happiness) tour began with SUJAN’s third camp (the first two are in Ranthambore and Jaisalmer, respectively). SUJAN is a member of the Relais and Châteaux group, which for 70 years has offered experiences that immerse you in a place and its culture, allowing you to discover them up close.

Living Alongside Leopards

SUJAN JAWAI derives its name from the seasonal Jawai River, which flows through this region and empties itself into the Jawai Bandh, one of the largest reservoirs in the state. The camp is located equidistant from Jodhpur and Udaipur, making it accessible to travellers. 

While the leopards are the stars of the show, the safaris and nature trails bring you closer to the semi-nomadic Rabari herdsmen coexisting harmoniously with the wild cats. ‘Rabari’ is derived from the word ‘Rehaan’, meaning ‘a person who shows the path.’ Wearing white dhotis, scarlet turbans and traditional jewellery and footwear, it’s common to witness the Rabaris leading their herd of goats to graze the rocky lands of Jawai. 

Unlike most national parks in India, which the forest department protects, Jawai thrives in unofficial protection. SUJAN, however, preserves parts of the land through education, healthcare and anti-poaching initiatives. More than a decade ago, conservationists and owners of the SUJAN hospitality group Jaisal and Anjali Singh rewilded 100 square kilometres of this unprotected land (known as the Green Zones) to reintroduce plants, trees, and other wild species.

Besides spotting the leopards, another highlight during safaris is the morning breakfast and evening snack before returning to the camp. While the former allows you to see Jawai’s landscape in all its glory during the day, the latter lets you enjoy the sunset with the bonus of hearing the jungle come alive at night. Village walks, hiking, cycling excursions, temple trails, and strolls with the Rabaris are other popular activities that educate you about the tribe and their rural lifestyle. 

Heading to the spa following an adventurous day is ideal. But I preferred to retire in my Royal Panthera Suite, set in seclusion from the remaining eight Tented Rock Suites. Overlooking uninterrupted views of the surrounding landscape, the double-bedroom suite comes with a private temperature-controlled pool, separate lounge and dining tents, and a personal butler. A black and white colour palette with hints of red—an ode to the turbans of Rabaris—defines the room interiors. Photographs of leopards, taken by the owners, dot the camp walls, making it rather obvious that you’re here for the big cats. Plus it’s perfect for manifesting a leopard sighting; it certainly worked for me. Not only did I spot Fenela but also her two cubs twice. 

The culinary programme draws inspiration from the local cuisine and strongly relies on seasonal produce. From lal maas to sangri ki sabzi with bajra rotis, among other local delicacies, I found myself indulging in new dishes every day. Following a two-night stay in the land of the leopards, I was excited to visit my next destination.

Golden City Splendour

Moving away from the rocky landscape, I arrived in the middle of the great Thar desert. SUJAN The Serai, less than an hour away from the golden city of Jaisalmer, is set on a one-hundred-acre private estate of indigenous desert scrub and draws inspiration from the royal caravan sites of ancient Rajputana (land of the Rajputs). An area that once had scanty vegetation is now blooming with greenery, to my pleasant surprise. I was welcomed with a refreshing drink and a swift tour of the hotel en route to my room. 

A place for rest and rejuvenation in the desert, SUJAN The Serai is mapped out with precision and detail. Local craftsmen have worked on the red-coloured sandstone that forms the foundation of the property, including the 21 tents and suites. Stepping down from the reception is the pièce de résistance—a grand walkway to a towering, inverted step well upon which lies the pool, whose beauty comes alive post-sunset as it’s lined with hundreds of candles. 

I checked into the Royal Tented Suite set in a private, peaceful and luxurious encampment. It features a heated outdoor plunge pool, an outdoor massage area, and tents to dine and lounge. A private butler will ensure you have everything you need during your stay. Subtle touches of local crafts and textiles are woven into the suite through carpets, throws and cushions. The scorching heat discouraged me from using my private spa, so I headed to the main one, where the 60-minute signature treatment eased every knot in my body. 

The food at SUJAN The Serai is similar to that of SUJAN JAWAI. Local and seasonal picks make up most of the menu, along with other global fare. I strongly recommend going for the thalis that showcase the state's culinary culture. The highlight was a traditional Jaisalmer breakfast set up in the property’s organic garden. I indulged in local preparations, my favourites being bhutte ka kheech with jaggery and ghee and pyaaz ki sabzi, among others. A much-needed walkthrough of the farm helped me digest my indulgent breakfast. 

Then, it was time to venture into the mystical environs of the golden city. Called the Jaisalmer Jaunt, this excursion offers a guided tour of the stunning Jaisalmer Fort, built in 1156 AD—a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is the oldest living fort in India. An expert guide and historian walked us through the fort, the intricate hand-carved Jain temples within it, and the splendid Patwa Haveli, showcasing this region’s rich history and architectural wonders. The Thar Sundowner is another must-do activity—a camel ride in the golden sand dunes and champagne with a view of the sunset make this experience truly magical. 

My night ended with a poolside candlelit dinner featuring yet another authentic thali (I wasn’t complaining). The following day, before sunrise, when it was time to leave, I witnessed a clear sky filled with stars and the moon, marking the end of a culturally rich Jaisalmer trip.

Into The Wild Again

Following a three-hour drive from the Jaipur airport, I finally arrived at the last leg of my trip. SUJAN Sher Bagh, the original SUJAN tented camp built in 2000, is nestled in the Ranthambore National Park—a tourist hotspot for its vibrant wildlife, especially the tigers. “We share a corridor with the forest; animals use it to pass by the other side,” the General Manager shared when I checked into the wildlife lodge, filling me with hope and thrill. 

While I had enjoyed the spacious suites in the previous SUJAN properties, the Imperial Raj Bagh Suite (named after the famous Raj Bagh Palace in the Ranthambhore jungle) took the cake. This double-room suite, situated slightly away from the eight Tented Jungle Suites and the Royal Sher Suite, invites complete unwinding while a sweeping pool deck allows you to soak in the natural surroundings. Instead of photographs of leopards, SUJAN Sher Bagh features photos of tigers taken by the owners, and tiger-print cushion covers to echo the theme. 

Although I visited the property in the off-season, I tried my luck and headed for an early morning game drive to Ranthambore National Park. The wildlife habitat features remarkable biodiversity, including leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles, hyenas, jackals, caracals, wild boar, antelopes, and deer, besides the tiger and 300 species of birds. Unfortunately, no wild animals were spotted. However, I thoroughly enjoyed the forest’s lush landscape. Following a long safari, the SUJAN Spa came to my rescue with its 90-minute signature treatment, which included a full-body massage by an expert therapist.

The Greater Ranthambhore Expedition, excursions to the UNESCO Ranthambhore Fort, wilderness walks and a visit to Dastkar (an NGO that produces handicrafts created by women from the villages around the Ranthambhore National Park) are just some of the other activities available for guests. I took part in a ‘jungli’ cooking class where the chefs taught me how to make the Rajasthani dish jungli maas in an earthen pot on an open-fire cooking stove. While I struggled initially to keep up with the traditional cooking methods, the dish turned out perfect. Later that night, I experienced a campfire dinner with grilled kebabs and a Rajasthani thali featuring the jungli maas I’d cooked earlier, with the jungle’s inhabitants lending a natural soundtrack to the setting. The kheer mohan was the perfect sweet ending to this wild dining experience. 

As I tucked myself comfortably into bed that night, ready to head back home the next day, I recalled a week full of rich experiences. SUJAN JAWAI, The Serai and Sher Bagh are part conservation projects, part luxurious retreats that celebrate Rajasthan’s culture while also helping you be a more responsible traveller.

Read the full story on ELLE India’s new issue, or download your digital copy via Magzter.