Ode À La Mode With Cartier

Cartier

This year, Cartier is celebrating the centenary of the incredible Trinity ring, which debuted in 1924 as a symbol of the Maison’s enduring values. It integrates the triad of brothers Louis, Pierre, and Jacques and historic boutiques into its narrative. The design evolution from fine rings to wider bands incorporates fluted, faceted, and gadrooned elements, preserving the chromatic trilogy of white, yellow, and rose gold. The charm lies in the rings’ fluid movement -rounded exteriors and sleek interiors sliding, overlapping, and merging seamlessly sans hierarchy.

 

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Three equals, iconic, glamorous, and undoubtedly a girl’s best friend. The resurrection of the XL bracelet and an XL version of the iconic ring underscores Cartier’s dedication to the Trinity’s historical significance. These carbon marvels possess a captivating, forever magnetic appeal, éternellement. This contemporary chapter also features classic and large model rings, bracelets, and pendants adorned in gold or diamonds.

 

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Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the Parisian Maison swiftly ascended European royalty, earning the title “jeweller to kings” and establishing a 177-year legacy woven with diamonds and gold, synonymous with regality. In an exclusive interview with Marie-Laure Cérède, director of watchmaking and jewellery design, we delve into the insights behind the new Trinity collection.

ELLE: How do you approach reconfiguring an iconic Cartier design like Trinity, and how much creative leeway do you have?

Marie-Laure Cérède (MLC): The idea of redesigning Cartier Trinity, an icon par excellence, seemed almost laughable, an impossible feat. But the challenge intrigued us. We forged ahead but freed ourselves from the obligation to produce a result at all costs. If a new design sparked inspiration, we would fully embrace it. But if it didn’t resonate, we agreed we would not push it any further. To redesign Trinity, we started at the beginning: three golds, made into three independent bands yet joined inseparably: three from one and one from three. Plus, the emotion that emanates from their rolling dance. Anchored by its values, we aimed to capture the absolute essence of the original but with a unique and incremental creative recipe.

 

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ELLE: What inspired the squared shape in the new design?

MLC: The new design called for a bespoke approach. Instead of starting from a hand-drawn sketch, we worked the volume by hand, kneading the material, rolling it, and compressing it to isolate a creative direction. To our surprise, an unexpected new shape began to emerge: a cushion. After unlocking the shape, we had to pinpoint its ideal proportions. With the finesse of a stone sculptor, we stripped away layers, little by little, a tenth of a millimeter at a time. It was a work of utmost precision.

ELLE: Could you share the creative impetus behind the modular Trinity ring?

MLC: The modular Trinity takes a counter-intuitive design approach: construction, then deconstruction. Like a Kumiki puzzle, we envisioned the Trinity bands interlocked as one structure and then designed them in reverse to deconstruct them into three. This naturally creates multiple ways to wear the same ring, which makes this Trinity so contemporary and adds to its universality. Wear the ring fused for a discreet day look, then unravel the bands to reveal the diamonds at night.

Read the full story on ELLE India’s new issue, or download your digital copy via Magzter.

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