Padmaa Jaipur: A Restored Haveli Hotel Where Heritage Meets Quiet Luxury

I first arrived in the city of Jaipur on a gloomy afternoon via car, which could only go so far. From the timeworn stretch of Chaura Rasta, I was met by a small electric rickshaw (and the smell of khasta kachoris) that traversed skillfully through narrow lanes until we reached a striking doorway carved from aged wood. There, nestled amid the heady fragrance of jasmine, was a home waiting for my welcome. Padmaa, Jaipur—a haveli that felt less like a hotel and more like the living memory of seven generations. 

Initially built in the 18th century and later shaped over seven generations of the Shah family, Padmaa has now been reimagined as a 15-suite boutique hotel, though it wears its past on its sleeve. The haveli’s name honours the family matriarch, Shrimati Padmaa Devi Shah, affectionately known as Amma, with a distinctly feminine touch to the space.

Contrary to the polished façade of other boutique hotels, Padmaa reverberates the sentiment of a slow life.

The original jharokhas have been meticulously restored, and the courtyard, aka the heart of the home, is flanked by stonework that’s been respectfully preserved, not scrubbed of its age. The interiors, orchestrated by designer Vaishnavi Bazaz of Studio Navee, blend Rajasthani accents with a soft elegance. You’ll find beautiful heirloom furniture, subtle hand-block printed upholstery and details that feel intimately indulgent. The architecture, led by heritage conservationist Gagan Sharma, does a good job at allowing the past and present to coexist in quiet harmony.

My suite was one of fifteen, each boasting a life and temperament of its own. It opened onto a shaded verandah that overlooked the courtyard, making a solid case for quaint communal spaces within a home. These Mumbai homes could never. 

You can begin your mornings on the rooftop, and adjacent to it lies a petite plunge pool where you can frolic around. Alongside the terrace bar, there’s also Chandni, a moonlit alcove on the second floor to wander around in the evenings, beverage of choice in hand. One big conclusion I derived during my time there: we really need more open-air spaces doused in culture. Even the global-meets-Rajasthani menu at the restaurant seems to rise from the haveli’s kitchen rather than arrive from outside.

The Rajasthani thaali (I’m still apologetic and a little mad at myself for not being able to finish it) is a must-try. Its rustic tang sends you into this culinary tizzy that’s going to be hard to replicate for a while. Another recco: the makhana korma. Table manners will turn into a relic of the past because fingers will (and should) be licked.

The kind folks at Padmaa also arranged a Leopard safari (in Jhalana) for us, and although there was no sighting of the beautiful animal on the rainy day, the invitation to pause and reflect on that incomparable foliage was a delight in itself. Additionally, getting there is surprisingly effortless. Jaipur’s airport is a short 30-minute drive, and once you’re on Chaura Rasta, the hotel’s team takes over, transporting you to the doorstep right away.

When I left Padmaa, I did so reluctantly. When has it ever been easy to walk away from something that made you feel quietly known? I’ll be back soon, though, the pink arches are beckoning me.

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