Even though Pierpaolo Piccioli has been infusing Valentino with his love for bright colours ever since he has been leading the iconic Italian house solo, his Fall Winter 2020 collection at Paris Fashion Week was unveiled with a series of black ensembles. There were leather jackets with shearling collars, elongated overcoats paired with sequin turtlenecks and translucent tops along with dresses cut with a hint provocation, worn with opera gloves. And, what about Valentino’s signature red? You could spot it on buttery soft leather bags and the accessories.
The Roman designer wanted uniformity to shine through this season so the individuals wearing the clothes—which invoked gothic glamour—could stand out. Fittingly so, the models walked to the songs of 18-year-old British music sensation Billie Eilish, whose music was mixed with sounds of a live orchestra. Piccioli’s muse of the moment, South Sudanese-Australian model Adut Akechm walked the ramp in a fiery red sequined outfit as the closing look for Valentino.
Other stand-out pieces at the Valentino show included see-through organza gowns, pleated gowns that were elevated with lace and corset-like bodices worn with oversized pants. There were combat boots and sneakers and one could say it was all in sync with the pared down minimalism which was at play throughout the season. With his breathtaking collection that often had the sensibilities of couture, Piccioli proved why there’s beauty, glamour and rebellion in restraint.
