Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week 2025 is here, and it’s rewriting how we perceive Japanese fashion. This season, designers have stepped up with collections that span from nostalgic tributes to the ’80s to cutting-edge sustainable innovations. From avant-garde storytelling on the runway to playful yet refined takes on traditional Japanese craftsmanship, Tokyo’s style scene is buzzing with creativity and bold expression. If you think fashion is just about clothes, think again—this year’s lineup is a masterclass in culture, artistry, and the power of a truly original idea. Here’s everything you need to know about the standout collections making waves at Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week 2025.
The Nostalgic ‘80s With Fetico’s Feminine Twist
Fetico, a brand about mixing past inspirations with modern vibes, stole the spotlight at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo 2025 with its Spring/Summer collection, The Secrets. Designer Emi Funayama took us back to the 1980s, channelling the essence of powerful women and the dreamy allure of daydreams. The collection featured daring lingerie-inspired details, sultry skin-baring cuts, and sculptural tailoring—think polka dot patterns, rose motifs, and even a retro waist bag! But the real scene-stealer? Fetico’s debut sneakers: square-toed beauties crafted from genuine leather with bold Velcro straps. With references from the film Drowning by Numbers and Veronica Webb as his muse, Funayama has given us a fresh take on the power dressing of the past.
Telma’s Low-Water Technology Revolution
Telma, founded by designer Terumasa Nakajima and a rising star in the Tokyo fashion scene, took home the Grand Prix at the JFW Next Brand Awards 2025. Telma’s Spring/Summer collection is a masterclass in sustainability, with pieces like tailored jackets made from 100% washi paper and skirts from Konjac (yes, you read that right!). Collaborating with Kyocera for eco-friendly printing, Telma is redefining fashion with colourful, bold designs that don’t cost the earth. From floral motifs to bold, draped silhouettes, this collection captures the vibrant spirit of Japanese craftsmanship while championing sustainable innovation.
SHINYAKOZUKA: Fashion As A Storybook
Celebrating its 10th anniversary, SHINYAKOZUKA’s ISSUE#6 collection turned the runway into a storybook moment. Presented at the National Stadium with a stunning blue carpet, designer Shinya Kozuka took inspiration from his picture book, A Town That Forgot Colors. The collection started in monochrome and evolved into a riot of hues, symbolising a journey from a dull world to one bursting with life. Think dreamy blue lamé jackets, abstract prints, and eye-catching leather bags in collaboration with Tsuchiya Kaban. The show was a theatrical masterpiece, blending fashion, art, and narrative in a way that left everyone spellbound.
Yoshiokubo’s Playful Mastery Of Tradition
Marking its 20th anniversary, Yoshiokubo’s Spring/Summer 2025 show was nothing short of spectacular. Held at a comedy theatre in Shinjuku, the brand embraced a “Shu-Ha-Ri” theme, capturing the stages of learning in Japanese arts. The collection is a playful mix of patchwork, cut-back designs, and streamlined silhouettes, each telling its own story. From the reimagined ‘Jello Shoes’ to unique garments that switch, gather, and transform, Yoshiokubo’s show celebrated two decades of creativity with an unforgettable fusion of fashion and performance.
Anrealage Homme’s Ode to Childhood
Kunihiko Morinaga’s Anrealage Homme took us on a whimsical journey through “childhood landscapes” with its second Spring/Summer collection. Embracing nostalgia with a pop twist, the collection played with motifs of “purity,” “distortion,” and “immaturity.” Expect to see colourful, hand-drawn patterns, rounded silhouettes, and playful embroidered details that harken back to schoolyard games and beloved anime. The soundtrack, featuring iconic Japanese rock band THE BLUE HEARTS, added an emotional layer to this celebration of innocence and boyhood dreams.
Chika Kisada: Ballet Meets Punk
Chika Kisada delivered an electric fusion of ballet elegance and punk energy for her Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The former ballet dancer-turned-designer combined tulle, lace, and denim with dramatic, asymmetrical silhouettes that felt both fierce and feminine. A striking palette of vibrant reds, paired with classic hues of navy, beige, and black, created a collection that captures the intoxication of city life and dance. This is not your typical ballet—it’s ballet with a rebellious twist!
BALMUNG’s Vision Of A Fictional City
Hachi’s BALMUNG took us on a journey to a “fictional city” with its Spring/Summer 2025 collection, blurring the lines between reality and imagination. Inspired by cultural movements, sci-fi elements, and spiritual imagery, the collection was presented in a circular, two-story set reminiscent of construction scaffolding. From oversized outerwear to quirky stuffed animal motifs, the designs embraced a mix of reality and fantasy that was both captivating and surreal. Models sourced from the internet added a unique, almost otherworldly vibe, underscoring the brand’s avant-garde vision.
HIDESIGN’s Blue Collar Revolution
Hyde Sign‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Blue Collar, redefined workwear with a fashionable twist. Imagine jackets with built-in fans for air circulation, pants designed for ultimate comfort, and high-tech materials that regulate body temperature. This innovative line, aimed at keeping workers cool and stylish in rising temperatures, will debut internationally at Pitti Immagine Uomo in January 2025. Hideo Yoshii’s designs promise to blend practicality with cutting-edge style—perfect for the modern worker.
