At its SS25 show, Dolce & Gabbana had only one train of beauty thought: blonde ambition. The entire cast of models walked the Milanese runway wearing tightly permed blonde wigs set in place with a black stretch hairband. The reference was clearly singular. It pointed to a rich, weaving tapestry of an enduring brand and muse relationship between Dolce & Gabbana and its fan and friend Madonna, specifically during her Blonde Ambition era in 1990.
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The decision to reference Madonna in the beauty notes for such a collection was apt. Named ‘Italian Beauty’, the show was a celebration of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s native Italy and the beauty the country has long produced, be it a Botticelli artwork or the new wave of supermodels headed up by Lombardy-born Vittoria Ceretti who opened the show. Madonna, though born in Michigan, comes from a big Italian family on her father’s side and has long ensured this heritage has been front and centre of her art.
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The one person who didn’t opt for this hair at the show, however? Madonna. In place to watch this tribute take place from the front row, the superstar instead shrouded her appearance with mystery as she wore a floor-length black lace veil that trailed to the floor and far behind her. Underneath, her blonde hair could be seen worn long and waved instead.
Dolce & Gabbana need not worry that their tribute was ill-received though. As the duo took to the catwalk Madonna stood from her seat and embraced them with several long-held hugs of congratulations and, no doubt, thanks for this sweet homage. It was a real moment as other front-row guests, including Naomi Campbell, were swift to lift their iPhones in enthusiasm.
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Mona Tougaard’s closing look pulled clear reference from Madonna’s iconic Jean-Paul Gaultier cone bra.
The original Blonde Ambition look was in and of itself a reference piece, pulling clear inspiration from Marilyn Monroe. The late American actor’s peroxide blonde was perhaps her most defining signature, becoming a shorthand for fame and contemporary American culture which Madonna was not only openly seeking but beginning to define and rewrite also. The legacy of a little blonde ambition endures into 2025 too.
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