ELLE Exclusive: A Conversation With Marc-Antoine Barrois On Crafting Scented Memories And The Luminous TILIA

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Fragrance is far more than just a scent; it’s a journey, a memory, a moment suspended in time. For me, it’s always been deeply personal—the soft floral notes my mother wore still linger in my mind, like a delicate whisper of the past. It’s this power of scent that brought me face-to-face with Marc-Antoine Barrois, who, during his first visit to India, unveiled his latest fragrance, TILIA, in partnership with Scentido. Barrois, who first made his mark in haute couture, now crafts fragrances that capture moments of joy, elegance, and nostalgia—each as timeless as his tailoring.

We caught up with him during his launch to discuss his creative process, the art of translating emotions into scent, and why TILIA marks an exciting new chapter for his olfactive journey.

ELLE: Your journey began in the world of fashion before transitioning into perfumery. How did your background in textiles and couture influence your approach to creating fragrances?

Marc-Antoine Barrois: I launched my brand 19 years ago, specialising in creative tuxedos and bespoke pieces for men and women. Even today, my tailoring atelier is just above our main store in Paris, at 14 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. The tuxedo is a uniquely elegant and timeless piece of clothing, much like the DNA of each of my perfumes.

ELLE: Sustainability is a significant part of your brand’s identity. How do you incorporate this philosophy into your fragrance creations?

MAB: I don’t. For me, the fragrance itself must be beautiful, powerful, and long-lasting, with a unique trail. I give Quentin Bisch, my perfumer, the freedom to use the ingredients he needs to create it. I don’t adhere to the dogma that natural materials are better than synthetic materials. It’s the olfactive result that matters. But when it comes to packaging and other areas, I’m very strict—using local manufacturers, recycled glass and paper, low-carbon shipping whenever possible, and even collaborating with charities to support disadvantaged people. I avoid services like Amazon to support local stores, and I’m mindful of reducing digital pollution by avoiding energy-intensive technologies like artificial intelligence.

ELLE: Your collaboration with Quentin Bisch has resulted in some extraordinary fragrances. Can you tell us more about how you two work together to bring your visions to life?

MAB: Meeting Quentin felt like meeting a twin brother, I’ve always said that. We share a creative osmosis, and our vision of life and creation is so aligned that I can trust him completely. Our collaboration is built on mutual trust, freedom, and respect. I never dictate specific ingredients; instead, I share emotions and feelings, trusting Quentin to translate them into scent.

ELLE: When designing a new fragrance like TILIA, what comes first—the story you want to tell, the emotions you want to evoke, or the specific notes you want to include?

MAB: For TILIA, none of those came first. We were working on a different floral fragrance when Quentin showed me a Linden and broomflower composition. I had an immediate crush on it. It wasn’t the same emotion as the one we were initially trying to capture, but it felt luminous and evoked feelings of happiness, summer, and a sense of modern nostalgia.

ELLE: How do you translate abstract ideas or emotions into something as tangible as a fragrance? Could you walk us through your creative process?

MAB: I mentioned a bit of it earlier. This process is very personal. I can express those emotions to Quentin and you, but ultimately, I want everyone who wears my perfumes to make them their own, connecting them with their own emotions. B683 was created for me, but all my other fragrances are gifts for others. They are no longer my perfumes; they belong to the person wearing them.

ELLE: TILIA is described as an embodiment of a floral scent that takes you to a wonderland of stars. What was your inspiration behind this particular fragrance?

MAB: TILIA evokes a never-ending summer in the beautiful countryside. It’s an imaginary star overlooking those happy days. After creating fragrances inspired by imaginary worlds with deeper, leathery notes like B683, Ganymede, and Encelade, I wanted my floral creations to be more luminous. In an imaginary universe, light comes from stars or suns, so TILIA is the first star in this collection.

ELLE: What emotions or memories do you hope people will associate with TILIA when they wear it?

MAB: Simple happiness. Our world needs it. When you realise that happiness is the most important feeling, you’re satisfied with what you have. You don’t seek out conflicts or unnecessary consumerism. Instead, you can focus on caring for the people you love and protecting nature.

ELLE: As a perfumer, what is the most unusual or unexpected source of inspiration you’ve ever encountered?

MAB: I’m always looking for the unusual and unexpected. My goal is to introduce new perfumes to the world, not simply to replicate what’s already been done.

ELLE: What is a common misconception people have about the art of perfumery that you’d like to dispel?

MAB: There isn’t a single misconception, as I believe there isn’t one specific norm to follow. Each person needs to do what feels right for them. However, I do think that once someone finds their signature scent, it’s wonderful to stick with it. There’s nothing quite like smelling perfume and immediately thinking of a loved one who wears it every day.

ELLE: If you could create a fragrance inspired by India, what notes would you include, and what story would you want it to tell?

MAB: Since this is my first visit to India, my knowledge of your country comes mainly from what I’ve read and seen in films. I imagine I’d be inspired by India’s incredible nature, its magnificent palaces, and the vibrant joy of its festivals of colour. In a way, that fragrance already exists in Encelade.

ELLE: Many people are curious about the process behind creating a fragrance. What’s something about the creation of perfumes that would surprise most people?

MAB: Creating a fragrance isn’t just about the notes and ingredients. It’s also about training and inspiring our partners to become the ambassadors of this new scent. For instance, I value the exclusive relationship I have with Monsieur Shishir Mehta, who has always respected my vision and carries my perfumes in his Scentido niche perfumeries across India.

ELLE: What’s your personal favourite scent memory, and how has it influenced your work?

MAB: My favourite scent memory is tied to the perfume my grandmother wore her entire life—Arpège by Lanvin. She passed away a few years ago, but even now, if I catch a whiff of that scent on someone passing by, I close my eyes and imagine I’m walking alongside her.

ELLE: How do you balance the desire to create timeless fragrances with the need to innovate and stay current in the ever-evolving fragrance industry?

MAB: Timeless elegance is my priority. While I wouldn’t create the same fragrance today as I did ten years ago, I still appreciate the scents from my past creations, like B683, just as much as I did on the first day.

TILIA, Marc-Antoine Barrois’ latest fragrance, is now available exclusively at Scentido niche perfumeries in India.

 

Beauty Editor

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