A Revolution in Threads: Vivienne Westwood’s Indian Affair

The Gateway of India has long stood as a symbol of history, independence, and the confluence of cultures. On April 1st, it will bear witness to yet another defining moment—a meeting of heritage and haute couture as Vivienne Westwood presents its first-ever fashion show in India. In partnership with Vivz Fashion School, the Department of Textiles, and the Government of Maharashtra, the fashion house will unveil a collection that marries its signature aesthetic with the artisanal richness of Indian textiles, showcasing the splendor of Khadi, chanderi, and handwoven silks on one of the most iconic stages in the world. 

The collection, crafted from India’s finest hand-woven silks, Chanderi, and Khadi cottons, is more than just fabric—it’s a story of resilience, heritage, and the human touch. As Andreas Kronthaler, Creative Director of Vivienne Westwood, puts it: “Getting to know the Khadi and Chanderi fabrics was a pleasure—I loved the lightness and the crispness of the fabrics. And the feeling that there is something important behind them – the human touch is still visible, and we were, of course, very aware of their historical significance and connection to the culture of India.” The show will also present some looks from the SS’25 collections as well as some iconic archival pieces of the fashion house.

Vivienne Westwood has always been about defying norms, pushing boundaries, and creating drama through structure, exaggeration, and movement. But how does that translate into the fluidity and richness of Indian textiles? The answer lies in the collection’s poetic tension between raw simplicity and sculptural grandeur.

“We took the simplicity of the materials and tried to reflect this in the designs. We added opulence through voluminous silhouettes, structured tailoring, and draping,” says Kronthaler. The collection brings signature Westwood elements—frilly dresses, balloon sleeves, exaggerated shoulder pads, and sharply tailored blazers—onto a canvas of Khadi’s rustic textures

This collection is a masterclass in contrasts—where raw, handwoven Indian fabrics meet the rebellious sculptural forms of Vivienne Westwood. The Saint Yves Dress  is a cascade of movement, with dramatic frilly edges that twist and coil like ancient vines reclaiming their space is crafted in lustrous Muga silk while the Gala Dress, rendered in structured Tussar Katia silk, nods to archival silhouettes with its fitted bodice, dramatic bell skirt, and asymmetric segmented sleeves—a vision of modern-day aristocracy, but with an edge.  And then there’s the Festival Coat, a floor-length, form-fitted silk masterpiece, with a draped waterfall back and a raw, tactile finish, as if time itself had weathered it into something undeniably luxurious. These few examples are enough to create such high anticipation among the lovers of fashion and just the lovers of Vivienne Westwood. The contrast is definitely to look forward to! 

An Ode to Indian Textiles

Beyond the iconic Khadi and silk, this collection is a love letter to India’s vast textile landscape. Reflective of the country’s rich terrain, the Vivienne Westwood capsule collection features summer white muslin cottons and raw silks, sand-hued Muga silks and stone pashmina wool, sky blue cotton, vibrant purple raw silk, and deep black cotton.

Each look balances Vivienne Westwood’s signature silhouettes with subtle nods to traditional Indian clothing. The beauty of the fabrics is highlighted through intricate tailoring—some sculpted, some draped—to allow each weave the attention it deserves, ensuring that the craftsmanship of the fabric remains the heart of the garment.

The Artisans Behind the Collection

What makes this collection truly special is its reverence for the hands that create these extraordinary fabrics. The textiles have been sourced directly from the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), a government-backed initiative dedicated to preserving the authenticity of Khadi and ensuring fair-trade practices.

One of the highlights of this collection is the exquisite Chanderi fabric from Aaranya Gwalior. Known for its glossy transparency and feather-light texture, Chanderi is an ancient weaving technique from Madhya Pradesh that dates back to the 7th century B.C. Originally woven for Maratha rulers, Chanderi was a favourite among India’s royalty, with gold motifs introduced under the patronage of the Scindia family in 1910. Today, this intricate craft continues to evolve, with weavers experimenting with contemporary motifs and bold hues while keeping the heritage intact.

Even today, the Scindia family of Gwalior remains instrumental in reviving the craft by introducing new designs, expanding looms, and empowering weavers through design innovation. The distinct characteristics of Chanderi—its royal zari borders, glossy texture, and sheer elegance—make it one of India’s most celebrated heritage fabrics, standing the test of time in its relevance and allure.

A New Beginning for Vivienne Westwood in India?

This show is not just a one-time spectacle—it’s the beginning of something deeper. “It’s such a wonderful opportunity to be able to present ourselves in this country – in this world! And especially at the Gateway of India, which is such a significant monument. We hope that this is the beginning of a long friendship between the house of Vivienne Westwood and India,” Kronthaler shares.

As the world shifts towards slow fashion, sustainability, and conscious luxury, India’s handwoven textiles stand poised to take centre stage. With this collection, Vivienne Westwood has stepped into a dialogue that could redefine couture—one that champions craft, sustainability, and the stories woven into every thread.

On April 1st, as the sun sets over the Arabian Sea and the Gateway of India stands witness, fashion will once again prove its power to transcend time, geography, and history. And at the heart of it all will be fabric—not just stitched into garments, but into a legacy.