Aartivijay Gupta's Collection At London Fashion Week Found Inspiration In Vibrant Kalighat Paintings

For the artistic eye, designer Aartivijay Gupta's offerings could be summed up as an able articulation of 'art imitating life,' as seen in her recent collection at London Fashion Week. Having dabbled in the fashion scene of the famed city numerous times, the ante on highlighting various artisanal practices is always up up, in her case. Last time it was Kashmir, this time around, it's the vibrant Kalighat paintings and the intricate pattachitra art forms of Kolkata. 

Brimming with cultural richness and featuring an eclectic mix of materials, the designer breaks down the core concept for us, and tells us why Pather Panchali as a movie encapsulates the look and feel of her collection very well. 

Read on.

ELLE: What inspired this new collection?

Aartivijay Gupta (AG): My Spring/Summer ‘25 collection, 'Kalighat Stories,' draws its inspiration from the vibrant Kalighat paintings and the intricate pattachitra art forms of Kolkata. These traditional Indian art styles are renowned for their emotive portrayals of mythological and natural scenes, as well as their ability to encapsulate the cultural and emotional essence of the artist’s surroundings. I had the privilege of working closely with the highly skilled artisans of Midnapore, and what truly struck me was their deep, humble devotion to their craft. It is this unwavering commitment that I aim to highlight on a global stage.

ELLE: How does this collection differ from your previous work?

AG: Every collection I create is an exploration of a different artistic narrative. Last season, we ventured into the world of Kashmiri papier-mâché, whereas this season, we delve into the rich traditions of Kolkata's Kalighat art. These are entirely distinct art forms, each with its own unique storytelling methods—this season’s paintings, for instance, predominantly draw upon imagery from temple iconography.

ELLE: What materials and techniques did you use in this collection?

AG: The core of the brand is centred on contemporary, functional clothing, inspired by diverse art forms. This season, we’ve embraced an eclectic mix of textures and materials, combining them in novel ways. Expect to see rich velvets, stretch mesh, traditional Jaamdani weaves, and luxurious silks forming the foundation of the collection.  

ELLE: What are the key pieces or stand-out designs in this collection?

AG: One of the most striking pieces is a grand sheath dress, featuring a stunning depiction of a mother and child painted by Mamoni Chitrakar from Midnapore. The artwork illustrates the mother’s love, with the backdrop of the Sunderbans—the towering trees and animals all surrounding her, symbolising the strength and protection she offers. 

ELLE: What do you hope people will remember most about this collection?

AG: More than anything, I hope Kalighat Stories serves as a gateway to traditional Indian art for a wider audience. There’s a profound imbalance in the global representation of our artistic heritage, and I wish for my work to foster a greater appreciation for the rich tapestry that generations of Indian artisans have created. 

ELLE: What’s your personal relationship with London? What does the city evoke in you?

AG: London holds a special place for me, as it’s a city brimming with cultural richness and artistic history. I enjoy visiting galleries, such as the Tate Modern, and spending time at iconic landmarks like St. Paul’s Cathedral and the British Museum.

ELLE: If your collection were a film, which one would it be and why?

AG: It would undoubtedly be Pather Panchali. It’s one of my all-time favourite films, and its depiction of Kolkata is nothing short of poetic. The film’s raw, heartfelt portrayal of life in Bengal mirrors the emotional essence that I strive to capture in my designs—gritty, yet profoundly beautiful.

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