New York means business, Milan is majestic and Paris is almost poetic—but London, that’s where the muggles turn into full-blown fashion wizards. If you think about it, every fashion capital has a set aesthetic and the designers that participate contribute to the same. New York represents veterans like Michael Kors and Tory Burch, who along with a freshman a.ka Peter Do contribute to the impeccably tailored yet utilitarian-chic niche.
Rooted in architecture and design, Italians know how to blend the two with fashion. But when it comes to LFW, there’s always a sartorial surprise element that takes the audience by surprise. Designers like JW Anderson, Nensi Dojaka and Richard Quinn are constantly experimenting with their craft, without confining themselves to a signature style. Despite the mourning period due to the demise of Queen Elizabeth II, this season was no different. Scroll below for our top 5 highlights from London Fashion Week S/S 23.
1. Richard Quinn’s Homage To The Queen
Richard Quinn closed the curtain on LFW in a sombre manner—paying a heartfelt tribute to the longest living monarch, late Queen Elizabeth II with his all-black section. Long veils, pussy bows, 3D flowers, crowns and silhouettes resembling the attires of yesteryears royalties—the designer mourned the demise of his most-important front-row guest in a hauntingly ethereal way.
2. Nensi Dojaka’s Deconstructed Take On Lingerie
Nobody romanticises lingerie, quite like Nensi Dojaka. The LVMH prize winner had supermodel Emily Ratajkowski closing her show in a berry-hued sultry dress. Known for playing with sheer and opaque elements using intricate techniques on fabrics, Dojaka dialled it up a notch by taking inspiration from the diaphanous nature of flowers and reimagining it in her own unique way.
3. Harris Reed Dabbles With Gender-Fluid Couture
Harris Reed kicked commenced London Fashion Week on a rather dramatic note. A gender-fluid interpretation of conventional female designs, Reed’s collection Mise en Scène blurs heteronormative lines and allows a fresh wave of diversity to take centre stage. Theatrical silhouettes with exaggerated volume—detailed with textures, cowls, surface ornamentation and pleats—each ensemble was imagined like a wearable piece of art.
4. Erdem’s Poetic Rendition Of Grief And Memory
Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2023 was influenced by museum conservators, a rather unearthed aspect of the art world. Rightfully presenting the collection in a museum’s courtyard—Moralıoğlu blended the past and the future by keeping the construction of the silhouettes old-school, but the look and feel were intentionally modern. Dainty dresses and gowns bearing vintage floral prints, layered with sheer elements further poetically enhanced his attempt.
5. JW Anderson’s Juxtaposition Of Weird And Wearable
From a metal ball dress to an outfit resembling a goldfish in a plastic bag—JW Anderson brings order to the absurd. Embracing the weird, Anderson’s collection may seem costume-ish, but on a closer look, there’s a deeper meaning and metaphorical reasoning for each ensemble.
For more on International fashion weeks, tap here.