ELLE Exclusive: What Does It Mean To Wear A Story? Ashdeen Lilaowala Has Answers

In a world where fashion often rushes towards the latest trends, Ashdeen Lilaowala’s work, even for the untrained eye, is somewhat an unwavering celebration of tradition. There’s this unyielding passion for craftsmanship and storytelling, all while quietly (yet passionately) revolutionising the way we think about luxury, fused with tradition. 

At the heart of his work lies the Parsi Gara, a centuries-old embroidery technique that’s both delicate and profound. But for Lilaowala, simply trying to preserve this tradition isn’t enough; he’s going all out to master the evolution route — rooted in a very contemporary lens. In fact, his latest collection, ‘Inheritance,’ is the culmination of this vision. In an exclusive chat with ELLE India, the designer opens up about the heirloom, authenticity, and the global market warming up to South Asian finesse.

“To break the rules, you first need to understand them deeply,” he shares, explaining his approach to this ancient art. His studio, Ashdeen, is dedicated to pushing the boundaries of this textile tradition, carefully modernising the Gara while staying true to its hand-embroidered heritage. It’s a fine balance, he says, between innovation and reverence. With its roots deeply embedded in Persian, Chinese, and Indian craftsmanship, Parsi Gara is not just a textile; it’s a living tradition.

The collection’s colours speak volumes, too. A rich palette of gemstones: tourmaline, rose quartz, ruby, garnet, amethyst, onyx, and pearls. All of them embody the reverence for intergenerational heirlooms, with these colours not being limited to just aesthetic choices. They’re rather symbolic, deeply embedded in the cultural consciousness of the Parsi community.

Lilaowala is also deeply involved in every aspect of his creations, from the first sketch to the final stitch. Collaborating closely with photographer Vansh Virmani and creative director Jahnvi Bansal for this particular collection, he ensured that the campaign for ‘Inheritance’ is as meticulous as the collection itself. And one can tell. “I have a very particular gaze,” Lilaowala admits. "That’s what keeps us authentic. That’s what makes our collections stand out."

Personally speaking, the most striking aspect of ‘Inheritance’ is how it bridges the gap between fashion and museum culture. “As the world becomes more automated, more globalised, more advanced, people are also seeking out real craft made by hand, true stories they can get behind, art forms they can touch and feel. From the MET in New York City and London’s Victoria & Albert Museum to the numerous exhibitions we’ve been witnessing in India recently, I strongly believe fashion, textiles and museum culture are deeply intertwined,” he adds. 

Lilaowala is also supremely optimistic about the future of South Asian craft in the global luxury market, as the world is starting to see Indian artistry not just as a resource but as a source of inspiration. “Luxury houses are realising that India is not just a supplier. It’s the starting point, the source of so many creative ideas,” he muses. And with his new collection, Lilaowala is ensuring that Parsi Gara is no longer a footnote in fashion history.

When asked about the collection, he speaks of tradition, which is worn in more fluid, everyday settings. Yes, there are the show-stopping sarees and lehengas, but there are also versatile separates like skirts, kurta sets, waistcoats, pussy-bow blouses, and more that can be styled in countless ways for everyday luxury. “It’s about making these traditions wearable,” he explains. "It’s about rethinking what it means to wear a piece of history, not just on special occasions, but as part of your everyday life."

When quizzed about the design development process, he surprised me by stating, “From concept to final stitch, this collection took us about four to five months. And that’s before we even get to the embroidery, which can take six to eight weeks for a single saree. It’s a long process, but it’s worth it. Each piece is a labour of love.” Every stitch, every detail, every gemstone-inspired colour is meticulously chosen to tell a bigger story spanning generations. 

One thing was clear: with ‘Inheritance,’ Ashdeen Lilaowala has done more than just reimagine Parsi Gara embroidery. He’s quite literally time-travelled with it.

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