ELLE First Look: JJ Valaya Takes Us Through His New Menswear Collection Set To Show At the India Men’s Weekend

As anticipation builds in Jaipur for the unveiling of India Men’s Fashion Week, the House of Valaya prepares to present Muraqqa, its Spring-Summer 2025 couture line for men. With JJ Valaya, a name synonymous with Indian fashion since 1992, at the helm, the collection draws deeply from the artistic wellsprings of Istanbul, Isfahan, and Delhi—three cities that represent the zenith of Islamic art. Muraqqa promises to be a narrative woven with Ottoman intricacies, the reimagined artistry of Persian carpets, and the timeless floral and fauna motifs of the Mughal era.

With an impressive array of custom-woven silks and elegantly tailored silhouettes, the collection showcases evening jackets, sherwanis, Nehru jackets, and bandhgala jackets. These pieces are complemented by stoles and shawls, each bearing unique embroidery techniques that reflect the brand’s identity. Embellishments, crafted from aged metals, silk threads, beads, and infused with vibrant seasonal colours, elevate the grandeur of this couture line. Muraqqa is poised to offer a fresh perspective on men's couture, merging rich cultural heritage with sophisticated design elements in a way that resonates with a modern audience.

The designer discusses the thoughts on his collection with ELLE: 

ELLE: Give us a peek into the name and inspiration behind your collection. 

JJ Valaya (JV): The inspiration for this collection is based on the three capitals of Islamic art but the title that binds them together, ‘Muraqqa’, used to be these beautiful highly decorative albums which were used in several centuries back to put together either miniatures or poetry or poems to create wonderful collections which could be treasured. That's exactly what our clothes are about also.

ELLE: What’s the most unexpected source of inspiration for this line?

JV: We create iconic timeless pieces that endure, that stand the test of time. And season after season, now for over 33 years, we have forever been inspired by the glory of the past which I then choose to absorb as much as I can and reinterpret into a modern line.

ELLE: Did you have any happy accidents—unexpected mistakes that turned out amazing?

JV: I'm a strong believer of coincidences and why they happen. Happy accidents, well, they could be also known as coincidences. I've always believed that sometimes when things happen, there's a very good reason that they're happening in that part of time. To put it all together into one single moment or a couple or a few, it doesn't work. Life is full of such magical moments. To embrace them, as either the best teachers or the ones that actually lead you on to golden paths is the best approach one can take.

ELLE: How would you describe your designs? 

JV: My journey as a designer has always been evolutionary. I don't believe in revolutionary because whenever you do anything revolutionary, it's always time bound and it's more often than not in design, it expires. Whereas I want to create collections which endure and to me the timelessness of a collection is very important. I want my pieces to be worn several times. I want them to be passed down generations. I want them to be treasured like beautiful heirlooms. And that's exactly where my thought process emerges from. And hence we always try to create these beautiful masterpieces, which will find a private place in people's wardrobes and would obviously be passed down generations. 

ELLE: What do you hope people take away from this collection when they finally see it?

JV: Every creative person, every director, every chef, every artist who creates something new, they always yearn for a reaction. It may be good, it may be bad but there should be a reaction and that is what we all endeavour and try to achieve so this collection is also no different. It is signature JJ Valaya, it is couture, it is timeless and absolute perennial luxury. The important thing is for people to go back with a reassurance that the brand they love and support and believe in has its focus totally in place, and continues to create some of the best masterpieces in the country and continues to inspire and create an aspiration for people to embrace it.