ELLE Weaves: Archana Jaju Transforms Heritage Textiles Into Canvases Of Storytelling And Craft

Archana Jaju’s label is a quiet exploration of India’s rich textile heritage, blending the deep-rooted traditions of handwoven fabrics with a contemporary, accessible sensibility. Her designs, marked by the fine balance between craftsmanship and modernity, evoke a sense of timeless elegance. At the core of her work is a commitment to preserving indigenous techniques while also experimenting with new forms, making her collections an intersection of the old and the new.

Rooted In Chanderi Weaving

The foundation of Archana Jaju’s work can be traced to Chanderi, a small town in Madhya Pradesh known for its centuries-old handwoven textiles. Jaju’s grandfather was instrumental in taking Chanderi fabric beyond its local confines, introducing the world to its fine texture and artistry. This legacy is the bedrock of the brand, with Chanderi fabric continuing to play a key role in many of its designs. The delicate weave, with its ethereal quality, serves as the perfect canvas for a range of artisanal techniques, bringing together tradition and innovation in every piece.

Kalamkari: An Ancient Art Form

One of the most distinctive features of Archana Jaju’s collections is the use of Kalamkari art, particularly the Srikalahasti style, a traditional form of hand-painting on fabric. This technique involves freehand painting on fabric using natural dyes, a method that has been passed down through generations of skilled artisans. The process of creating Kalamkari art is labour-intensive, requiring as many as 23 meticulous steps, each one contributing to the final masterpiece that unfolds over weeks.

The journey begins with bleaching the fabric, ensuring an even surface for dyeing, followed by softening the fabric to allow better absorption of dyes. Sun-drying naturally sets the stage for hand-painting, where artisans use their expertise to draw intricate motifs inspired by nature, mythology, and folklore. The final stages involve air drying and washing, a process that helps set the colours and ensure the longevity and quality of the fabric. This painstaking 

Modern Interpretations of Tradition

Though Archana Jaju’s designs are steeped in tradition, they are far from old-fashioned. The use of handwoven silks, natural dyes, and contemporary silhouettes ensures that the brand speaks to a wide audience, appealing to those with an eye for heritage as well as modern sensibility. The Kalamkari motifs—often depicting birds, animals, and floral elements—are seamlessly integrated into modern forms, from sarees and dupattas to more contemporary, fusion-style garments. The designs are a celebration of nature’s beauty, while the silhouettes reflect a modern, wearable ease.

Sustainability is another cornerstone of the brand. Archana Jaju’s use of natural dyes, extracted from plants and other organic materials, ensures vibrant, earthy tones without the environmental cost of synthetic chemicals. The brand’s focus on eco-friendly processes extends to every aspect of its production, from dyeing to sourcing fabrics. In this way, each piece embodies a respect for nature and a conscious effort to preserve both craftsmanship and the environment.

Archana Jaju’s label doesn’t simply showcase Indian textiles —it tells the story of their evolution, drawing from centuries-old techniques and reimagining them for a contemporary world. In every collection, there is a quiet reverence for the past and an ongoing dialogue between the old and the new. The result is a body of work that feels both timeless and of-the-moment, where tradition is not just preserved but transformed, and where design doesn’t merely follow trends but sets its own course.