ELLE Weaves: Inside ituvana’s Habutai Silk Collection

For this edition of ELLE Weaves, material takes precedence over everything else. The collection from ituvana is built around a single fabric, Habutai silk, and to truly understand it, you have to go back to the very beginning.

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The process begins with sericulture. Silkworms are raised on a steady diet of mulberry leaves. Their growth cycle is carefully monitored because the quality of the cocoon determines the quality of the fibre. Once the worms spin their cocoons, these are harvested and submerged in hot water. The heat loosens the natural gum that holds the filament together, allowing a single continuous strand of silk to be drawn out. This strand can stretch for hundreds of metres. It is reeled, combined with other filaments, twisted and spun into yarn.

That yarn is what gives silk its dual character. It is lightweight and fine yet strong and durable. Breathability comes from the natural structure of the fibre, which allows air to pass through. The smooth surface reflects light, creating its characteristic sheen.

Habutai silk is woven using a simple, balanced weave. The goal is a smooth, lightweight fabric with a clean finish. Compared to heavier varieties such as gajji silk, Habutai feels finer and more flexible. It holds a gentle structure, which makes it useful for garments that need drape without bulk. It does not overpower a silhouette. Instead, it follows it.

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After weaving, the fabric moves to dyeing. Techniques such as bandhani or dip dye are used to build colour gradually. In bandhani, sections of the fabric are tied before dyeing, creating controlled patterns once the ties are removed. Dip dye involves immersing the fabric in stages to achieve a soft gradient. Both methods allow the silk to retain depth and dimension. Because silk absorbs dye well, the colour becomes saturated without looking flat.

Once dyed, the fabric is cut and constructed. Habutai responds quickly to movement, so pattern making takes that into account. Seams are positioned to support flow. The fabric’s lightness means it can be layered without feeling heavy. Finishing processes, including soft washing, help relax the weave slightly and enhance comfort against the skin

In this collection, Habutai silk appears across kurta sets, wrap sarongs, and draped gowns. The choice of fabric shapes the outcome. A kurta gains fluidity instead of stiffness. A sarong ties and falls naturally. A gown moves easily, with the silk creating a smooth line rather than volume.

What stands out is the clarity of focus. The collection does not treat silk as an embellishment. The fabric defines the garments from start to finish. From mulberry leaf to finished piece, each stage of making influences how the final design looks and feels.

ELLE Weaves often explores the relationship between craft and clothing. Here, that relationship is direct. Habutai silk brings together cultivation, weaving, dyeing and construction in a way that is visible in the final garment. The result is clothing shaped by process, where the making is as important as the design.

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