Matthieu Blazy Gets Low at Chanel

If you had to give a sweeping, Ken Burns-style overview of how the dominant 2020s aesthetic emerged, it would go something like this: the pants got bigger. And the rises, much, much lower. Today at Chanel, Matthieu Blazy doubled down on the latter trend, with looks that featured an extreme drop waist, often accentuated by a belt. The silhouette was a nod to the flapper era, and a modernized version of the sportswear Gabrielle Chanel was known to both design and wear.

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As the millennial madeleine that is the opening strains of Lady Gaga’s “Just Dance” played, models walked across the glittery floors of the Grand Palais set (which also included a brightly colored light installation that resembled an Erector Set). Blazy expanded on recent hits, like feathery brooches, colorful tweeds, and novelty bags. But his focus was on relocating the waistline south, with long sweater vests worn with sporty pleated skirts both mini and midi. Even a simple cream dress featured an exaggerated Basque waist with scrolls of fabric.

New house ambassador and viral sensation Bhavita Mandava walked (in an ultra-long quarter-zip), as did Alex Consani (in a paillette-strewn matching set). Age diversity, always refreshing in this youth-obsessed world, was also evident in the casting, adding to a welcome trendlet of appearances by beloved veterans Kristen McMenamy at Tom Ford and Guinevere van Seenus at Calvin Klein.

Some of the models sported glittering, dance-floor-ready pastel hair, and as the collection went on, the glitz factor was turned up to 11, with colorfully patterned coats and gowns that were layered like complicated pastries, complete with cascading ruffles, trailing ribbons, and dragonfly-embellished bodices. The dance floor isn’t ready for this level of peacocking.

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