This Engineering Grad Made Footwear From Tomato & Banana Skins. Cool Much?

Anita Soundar had thermodynamics and fluid mechanics on her mind while she was studying. But there was also something else that filtered into her thoughts every now and then, almost making for a tempting pull-away from her books. Shoes. Little did she know then it would turn into a full-time love, for her. “I was a chemical engineer. I was a second-generation industrial entrepreneur; no one thought this would take up my life,” she smiles. Yet they did. She listened to her heart’s calling, moving ahead to study footwear design all the way from Italy to Netherlands and China, in a bid to understand the entire spectrum—hand crafting to mass production. "I experimented with various schools and philosophies of footwear design until I was ready to architect my own," she adds.
Cut to date, the Chennai-based designer has got zany shoes that are made of natural materials like cotton, tomato and banana skin, that notch things up on the sustainability and fashion scales. They’re named Disobedience, apt for an idea that bucks the norm. We do a soul-to-sole chat with her on all the inspiration that has fuelled her journey…

Over To Her

ELLE: Trace a little about your journey. We bet it’s been interesting!

Anita Soundar (AS): My background in environmental sciences opened my eyes to the pressing need for a lifestyle shaped by mindful practices. Through this, I became drawn to the concept of creating footwear shaped by natural materials—fabric, wood and metal. I immersed myself in the art of weaving, learning the ins and outs of a loom by heart and by hand. Over time, I grew a deep interest in woodworking and carpentry, and my industrial background found a whole new purpose as I used it to design my signature steel and wood heels. It’s been a long road to get here, but every step of the way has been filled with purpose. And finally, here we are.

I didn’t just want to make a shoe which had a story where the materials are really curated, but boring in design; something that people are not interested in. I wouldn't wear it so why would I expect somebody else to do it?

ELLE) How did you decide to come up with the brand Disobedience; also why this name?

AS: I always thought that it's very imperative that the shoes should look very desirable and have meaning. I didn’t just want to make a shoe which had a story where the materials are really curated, conscious, impactful, but boring in design, something that people are not interested in. I wouldn't wear it so why would I expect somebody else to do it? I also noticed a significant gap in the market where everyone seemed to gravitate toward European designer footwear. Even when people wore Indian designer clothing, their shoes and bags were almost always from international brands. I wanted to change that. My vision was to create shoes that had their own distinct voice; they had to be different yet be desirable.

Beyond aesthetics, I also wanted to challenge the idea that luxury footwear must rely on calf leather or reptile skin to feel exotic. I believed it was possible to use humble, sustainable materials while still creating good, high-quality designs.
The name Disobedience reflects this philosophy. To me, disobedience is about questioning conformity—it’s about breaking away from the expected and redefining what footwear can be. From idea to execution, this mindset has shaped everything we do.

ELLE: You create footwear from kala cotton, banana and tomato skins, upcycled plastic, plant-based leather, wood and more. The reason for picking these materials?

AS: We chose these materials because of their biodegradability and sustainability. Since they are either derived from nature or upcycled from existing natural materials, they have a much higher potential to break down without leaving a lasting impact. I also wanted to be mindful of the waste we generate. Instead of introducing more plastic into the system, I looked for alternatives that already exist. By using wood for heels or incorporating steel, we can avoid producing new plastic while still ensuring durability and design integrity. Our goal is to create footwear that is not only aesthetically distinct but also responsible. 
Shoes made from banana skin or tomato skin are also durable. They are just as durable as vegan leather.

ELLE: Were there challenges you faced when creating shoes out of these skins?

AS: Yes, there were quite a few. First, the challenge was to find the right partners like when I wanted to work with handwoven natural fibres. I understand the weaving community is across India—each state having their own weave, and so, if I wanted something exclusive, I needed to have my own loom, my own weaver etc. Most of the textile-based brands work like that, each having their own weaving setup. I started like that, I learned to weave myself and had small weaving looms and I used to bring weavers and work with them to create something unique.

Secondly, there was an issue with materials. The team I work with is well-versed with using leather—for them using plant-based leather or using textile was completely different. So, if I wanted something particular in weaving, I learnt to do that myself. I also learnt the basics of carpentry from my friends' studios. I would go there, make a prototype and then develop it. When I wanted to work with steel for the heels, I started working in my family business which is a fabrication setup where it is made inhouse and then prototype. It all took us time and a lot of learning to do everything by ourselves to make something which is unique, distinctive and desirable.

ELLE: Being a different material, there would be a lot of trial and error when making the shoes?

AS: For sure! To date, we face a tough uphill climb when it comes to working with vendors who are based in India who create tomato scrap, banana or sugarcane waste. The issue is, these people are buying the waste technology from institutes and then they put that product out, but they do not know how this material is going to work, say, in a fashion space. These vendors have just worked with bag manufacturers, but none have worked with shoes. We are one of the first people who have been experimenting in this field, and for the last one year, we’ve been giving them constant feedback with what is working and not working. There is material tearing that happens during pressure in the shoe-making process where a lot of times, the material just breaks while making. There have definitely been a lot of such trial and error with the materials, where the cost is on us.

ELLE: How long does each shoe take to make?

AS: The process of making each shoe is incredibly detailed and starts right from the yarn stage. Sometimes, we even go further back to understand how the fibre itself is made—is it machine-spun or hand-spun? From there, the journey includes dyeing, hand-weaving, insole construction, footbed design, heel building, and finally, shoe assembly. Depending on the complexity of the design, it can take anywhere from 8 to 22 hours to craft a single shoe.

ELLE: Did people take to them initially? Was it tough to break through perception?

AS: In the last 3-4 years, I’ve given the shoes I made to a lot of friends and acquaintances to get their feedback on comfort etc, as I’m constantly testing the ground. Initially, some of them even give the shoes back after a few months, saying they don't know how to style my shoes and where to wear them. In the back of the mind, I was left wondering, ‘Who are these people I'm making shoes for?’. But then, there were others who were also happy with the shoes and said it felt amazing wearing them and that feedback helped. Today, we’ve kind of understood and mastered what works and know what people are looking for. The shoes look so good and they have a hip vibe to them and can be worn anywhere.
At the start, the very first shoe made was of this linen-blended textile fabric. I was thrilled to see something done in natural fibre, but that time we didn't make our own heel, we used plastic. I learnt carpentry as I wanted wooden heels and I learnt metal fabrication as I wanted to make metal solid heels. Today, that makes the shoes coveted and a great sustainable choice.

ELLE: Being sustainable makes the point for reducing the carbon footprint. Time for more brands to follow suit?

AS: I think the idea for me is to make shoes which are unique and fashion forward that people want to wear at an event or going out. The second part is the sustainability aspect of the shoe where the customer goes, ‘Oh wow, this is made from sustainable materials!’ It's not a compromise but I think that's what is important. Brands like Thaely Sneakers and Birdhouse have been here long before us, proving that there is a growing space for eco-friendly alternatives. While this is still a relatively niche market, the demand for sustainable footwear is increasing. It’s a white space that will take time to fully develop, but it is inevitable. I’m glad to be in the conversation on it.
 

ELLE: Your words of advice to people starting out? 

AS: One of my key principles as a fashion entrepreneur is to think beyond just designing a product—I believe we also need to consider how we close the loop. The post-consumer stage is just as important as the creation process, and addressing what happens to a product at the end of its life is essential for true sustainability. It’s what makes the difference when finding resonance with consumers.

ELLE: After shoes made from these materials, what’s next?

AS: We’re always excited about exploring new materials and collaborating with different communities. Right now, we’re working on incorporating recycled cotton yarns into our shoes, experimenting with Eri silk. Another exciting thing is integrating ceramic hardware into our designs. We work with a ceramic studio in Chennai that develops small bows and buckles that are made in ceramic and we’re using them because it’s a completely unique idea. Also, when it comes to the hardware part, most of the buckles we see on shoes are made from metal and there are only a few manufacturers who create trims or hardware. So, there’s a lot of firsts that fuel our minds. It’s fun and it’s what we thrive on; ideas are everything!  

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