ELLE First Look: Satya Paul Will Bring A Refined Vibrancy To Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI

Forty glorious years? What does it take to build a legacy so potent? So much so, that it inevitably ends up being synonymous with a silhouette that has existed for centuries. We’re talking about the sari here, and with that, it’s imperative to highlight how Satya Paul’s name is rightfully synoymous with the garment, for as long as one can remember. 

Cut to date, joining in the 25th anniversary celebrations of Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI, the iconic label is set to showcase its new line ‘Alchemy,’ in collaboration with Lakmē Salon. From finding common ground in Pedro Almodóvar's colourful world to pushing forth a new agenda for vibrant resortwear, the designers gave us an exclusive peek into all that went into the making of the collection.

Into the making.

ELLE: Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI is celebrating 25 years–how are you feeling about being a part of this special milestone?

David Abraham: This season is a moment of reflection and celebration, both for Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI and for Satya Paul. Since the brand was founded in 1985, it has spent the last 40 years shaping a distinct narrative–being a part of this 25-year milestone is more than just a showcase; it’s an acknowledgment of the creative spirit that has driven Indian fashion forward. This year, we have worked closely with Lakmē Salon to craft a visual language that seamlessly blends fashion and beauty, ensuring that the beauty looks reflect the same innovation and artistry as the collection.

ELLE: What’s your collection called and how does it represent the evolution of your brand from its beginnings?

Rakesh Thakore: Our collection, 'Alchemy,' presented for the 25th edition of Lakmē Fashion Week in collaboration with  Lakmē Salon, is a celebration of transformation—both in design and perspective. It embodies a glass-half-full approach to the world, embracing change with optimism and creativity. At its core, 'Alchemy' is a tribute to the essence of Satya Paul, where prints are not just patterns, but meticulously-engineered compositions, thoughtfully placed to enhance the individuality of each silhouette. 

ELLE: Three crisp words to describe your collection would be?

Kevin Nigli: Multicolour. Monochrome. Resort wear. 

ELLE: What’s the core inspiration, the silhouettes, colour palettes and key elements of the collection?

David Abraham: Satya Paul’s collection, 'Alchemy,' redefines summer dressing with a fresh infusion of colour, fluid silhouettes, and artistic influences. Designed for the modern wardrobe, the collection moves effortlessly between bold and understated—an invitation to explore the many moods of the season. Sunshine yellows radiate warmth, melted chocolate lends depth, and inviting watermelon adds a refreshing vibrancy. The silhouettes are equally versatile: think effortlessly chic everyday shirts, breezy yet statement-making kaftans, and light trench coats that layer seamlessly over everything from structured shorts to a fluid sari. Eveningwear takes on a luminous edge with spotlight-ready dresses and shimmering sequined saris that promise to dazzle.

ELLE: As Indian fashion is at a pivotal standpoint at the moment, what’s one creative desire you want fulfilled for the betterment of the industry as a whole?

Kevin Nigli: One of our deepest creative desires for the betterment of the Indian fashion industry is to see homegrown fashion celebrated on a global stage for its uniqueness, craftsmanship, and cultural richness. By fostering innovation while staying true to our heritage, we envision a future where Indian fashion isn’t just appreciated within our borders but is recognised internationally for its artistry and depth. From reviving age-old weaving traditions to pushing boundaries with contemporary interpretations, we strive to create pieces that are not just garments but a reflection of India’s evolving creative landscape.

ELLE: If your collection had to encapsulate its vision in the form of a movie director’s vibe, who would it be and why? 

Rakesh Thakore: If 'Alchemy' embodied a filmmaker’s essence, it would be Pedro Almodóvar, for his instinctive and fearless use of colour. Just as his films make bold hues feel essential, Alchemy embraces colour as a design philosophy, with sunshine yellow, melted chocolate, and watermelon shaping the mood of the collection. 

ELLE: What does your brand do best that no one else in the realm can match up to?

David Abraham: What truly sets us apart is our mastery of translating the deepest, truest shades hidden within pigments onto meticulously chosen fabrics like silk and cotton. It’s a process that goes beyond simply applying ink to fabric; it’s about breathing life into each creation. Every print we craft is a carefully designed composition, tailored to complement the curves, contours, and flow of a garment. Our expertise lies in transforming a two-dimensional artwork into a dynamic, wearable piece, ensuring that each design not only captivates the eye but also enhances the form of the wearer.

Also Read: 25 Years Of Lakmē Fashion Week In Partnership With FDCI: 25 Voices That Shaped India’s Fashion Landscape