Tom Ford Brings Executive Realness to Paris Fashion Week

Did someone say the late ’90s are back? After a New York Fashion Week studded with Carolyn Bessette Kennedy references and sleek minimalism, followed by a Gucci show that nodded (or really, winked Demna-style) to the house’s Tom Ford era, Paris Fashion Week brought us a Tom Ford collection that transported us back to the era—with detours through corpcore and jet-set glamour. Not to mention one of the decade’s icons, Kate Moss, sitting front row.

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Rather than walk down a runway, models wandered through a minimalist all-white space, mingling and strolling like extras in a stylish music video. They sported high-gloss leather skirts and dresses, lace accents, and layered knits. Designer Haider Ackermann played with all things transparent, from sheer button-downs to clear jackets, skirts, and trenches with an American Psycho slickness. Even the clear rain hat got a rare runway outing. He also paid homage to the house’s founder with seriously low-cut trousers accentuated by a slim leather strap.

Androgyny was another cornerstone, with pinstriped power suits on models of all genders—but those suits sparkled. And two scalloped black gowns offered a spikier take on traditional eveningwear.

Ackermann’s strong color sense was on full display: hues of jade, scarlet, and eggplant enlivened an array of mostly black, white, and gray. And the models’ unusual shades of matte lipstick provided a punchy counterpoint (not to mention further proof of the demise of clean-girl makeup.)

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One of the most refreshing aspects of the show: the chronologically diverse casting. Models of all ages were included, with ’90s icon Kristen McMenamy making a particularly memorable cameo that made it feel like 1997 all over again.

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