As Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI marks 25 years of shaping India’s sartorial landscape, one designer, Tarun Tahiliani, stands at the crossroads of tradition and innovation, reflecting on their journey within this iconic platform. From his debut collection to their latest offering under OTT, their evolution has been a testament to craftsmanship, reinvention, and a commitment to wearable, India-modern fashion. In this exclusive conversation, he share insights on hisnewest collection—an interplay of Indian sportswear and heritage techniques—while diving into their inspirations, aesthetic influences, and hopes for the fashion industry's future.
With a vision that merges nostalgia with forward-thinking design, they continue to carve a distinct space, proving that true creativity lies in authenticity and evolution.
ELLE: Lakmē Fashion Week is celebrating 25 years this year. Please elaborate on all the times you’ve presented your collection with them and how you’re feeling about being a part of this special milestone.
Tarun Tahiliani (TT): For me, a milestone is a wonderful marker, but it doesn’t feel any different from when I first showed my collection. The difference now is that I’m more seasoned, more prepared, and able to focus on all aspects of the business, not just the show itself. As I’ve grown older, my perspective has shifted. I’m no longer interested in theatrics; I want to present beautiful, wearable clothes, just like the designers I admire around the world. That’s where my focus lies.
ELLE: What’s your collection called, and how does it represent the evolution of your brand from its beginnings?
TT: This collection doesn’t have a specific name since it’s only the second collection under OTT. It builds on my work in Indian sportswear, merging it with traditional techniques like draping, embroidery, and chikankari. The fabrics are primarily Indian, except for a few, like a specially sourced jersey and a permanently pleated fabric that is imported. Other than that, the collection is deeply rooted in Indian textiles—fine mulmul, khadi, silk—forming a rich lineup of separates that will evolve and build on each other season after season.
ELLE: Three words to describe your collection.
TT: India modern, subtle, draped.
ELLE: What’s the core inspiration, the silhouettes, color palettes, and key elements of the collection?
TT: The core inspiration comes from the garments I grew up with—pieces that are slowly disappearing, like the jama, bandi, lungi, and dhoti. These serve as my points of departure. There’s also a touch of jewelry-inspired detailing in the prints. I’ve had the opportunity to revisit the works of the Singh Twins, two artists I deeply admire, and with their permission, we’ve reinterpreted some of their original collages. We’ve adjusted the color palette to be more subtle while incorporating these prints into bold, striking silhouettes.
ELLE: If your collection had to encapsulate its vision in the form of a movie director’s aesthetic, who would it be and why?
TT: That’s a tough one. I’d say James Cameron, simply because of the scale.
ELLE: As Indian fashion is at a pivotal moment, what’s one creative desire you’d like to see fulfilled for the betterment of the industry as a whole?
TT: I would love to see the industry work as a united front—more inclusivity, more collaboration, and a stronger commitment to education. We need to look beyond just fashion weeks and seek greater exposure to international business models. There’s so much to learn from how the global fashion industry operates, and that knowledge should be more accessible to those starting.
ELLE: What does your brand do best that no one else in the industry can match?
TT: What sets my brand apart? It makes me happy.