In recent years, the fashion landscape has been heavily influenced by the iconic names of European luxury, headlined by the current involvement of LVMH in olympics and luxury fashion has gained traction all across the world. With French and Italian brands dominating the global stage, the presence of British brands seemed to have dwindled, leaving only a few historic names to carry the torch. But there is a resurgence happening in the last few years, with a new wave of British designers rising, defying the odds and demanding recognition in the industry. These emerging brands are not just reclaiming a position in the luxury market but they are making space for fresher and younger perspectives, inspired by heritage of various cultures across the world.
From the Japanese elements of Sage Nation to the British-Nigerian heritage rich designs of Tolu Cooker, these brands are becoming the new voice of British fashion. Each brand offers something unique, whether it’s a bold take on traditional craftsmanship or an innovative approach to sustainable fashion.
Let’s dive in and explore such British Based brands that are currently shaping the future of fashion.
Sage Nation
Established in 2020, SAGE NATION by Sage Toda-Nation in London is the embodiment of Sage’s dual Japanese and British heritage. The brand’s focus pays close attention to traditional materials, methods of design, and garment construction. The ethical production and eco-friendly materials makes it a go-to for those who appreciate fashion with a conscience.
Built on the hybridisation of the two cultures, it has engineered a unique approach to garment making, striking an aesthetic and conceptual balance. SAGE NATION is committed to delivering non-seasonal, genderless clothing designed to embrace everyday wear. And the cherry on the top is that fabrics used to create the garments are locally sourced both from Japan and the UK and constructed in London.
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A Day Without Angst
This brand embodies the essence of punk style, featuring dark grunge leather and acid wash garments. The brand, created by seasoned designer Dagye, aims to create a strong look that can easily become the uniform of a rebel or anti-hero. ADWOA’s well-structured technical pieces are made from high-quality materials, showcasing the key tenets of punk attire: rebellion and non-conformity. These pieces are designed for confident individuals who stand in defiance against the status quo and are not influenced by societal expectations. ADWOA’s pieces are designed to cut through the noise of fashion and its expectations, making them suitable for those who stand in defiance against the status quo.
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Tolu Cocker
London-based British-Nigerian fashion and textile designer, illustrator, and multi-disciplinary artist Tolu Coker launched her brand in 2018 after graduating from Central Saint Martins focusing on deconstruction and sustainability. Coker’s collections are illustrative, dynamic, and thought-provoking, flirting with the boundaries of contemporary art and fashion. The brand’s recent work has focused on empowering communities, with collaborations with Vlisco and The City of Joy in the Democratic Republic of Congo and charity ‘Choose Love’ for London Fashion Week.
The label aims to create a safe, inclusive, and diverse space for individuals to explore autonomy in fashion. The brand is rooted in community, craftsmanship, and cultural inclusion, with largely genderless collections and sustainable practices such as local manufacturing, fair wages, and upcycling waste materials.
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Nicholas Daley
Nicholas Daley, a London-based designer, graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2013 and launched his eponymous label in 2015. The brand combines personal narrative with Black British and diasporic themes, incorporating bespoke textiles and complex finishes. Daley’s contemporary menswear wardrobe explores identity, heritage, and memory, with a focus on artisan makers and ethical sourcing. The Return to Slygo exhibition showcased the brands’ multicultural Jamaican-Scottish roots. The label has supported music charity initiatives and introduced the Nicholas Daley x Fred Perry Grant Program in 2019. Daley has also participated in apprenticeship and mentoring schemes to foster young design talent.
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Craig Green
The British brand has gained a significant following since its debut at the Men’s London Fashion Week in 2013. Their designs are characterised by their commitment to concept and challenging forms, but also the ability to create unique yet wearable clothing with a utilitarian edge. The designer’s first solo show in 2015 was described as a fashion moment by BoF’s Editor-at-Large Tim Blanks.
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LỰU ĐẠN
LỰU ĐẠN, founded in 2021 by Hung La, is a luxury label that focuses on the nuances of Asian identity and its evolution. The brand, derived from La’s native Vietnamese, uses the words “Pomegranate” and “Bullet” to create the colloquial term for a “Dangerous Man.” LỰU ĐẠN respects heritage and generational sacrifice while celebrating new legacies being created as its community breaks free of tropes and expectations. The brand uses rich color palettes, reminiscent prints, and brazen silhouettes to trace stitches back to lineage and breathe modernity into tradition.
Lu’u Dan, founded by Hung La in the wake of George Floyd protests and Stop Asian Hate during lockdown, is known for its bold and refreshing clothing that recontextualises the environment around the wearer. The brand features luxurious viscose shirts covered in snake print, faux leather jackets, giant flowy bontan pants, razor-sharp suits, and tailoring. As a brand, Lu’u Dan is a little brash, punk rock, and Gangster by way of Takashi Miike. La is also using the brand’s Instagram account to highlight disparities in the fashion world and call out injustices as he sees them.
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Arif Ferdous
Arif Ferdous is an emerging designer whose work is characterised by a keen attention to detail and a deep understanding of fabric. His pieces are elegant yet avant-garde, offering a fresh perspective on modern British fashion. Ferdous’ brand is for those who appreciate the finer nuances of design and craftsmanship.
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