Alia Bhatt To Madhuri Dixit: How The Stars Are Bringing The Indian Paithani Back

When Alia Bhatt stepped into the media spotlight at the recent Waves summit—that took place on Maharashtra Day—she did more than show her support for the event for technology and entertainment, she endorsed her love for a 2,000 year-old fashion legacy.

Looking every bit resplendent in her traditional pink paithani sari by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, the Bollywood star threw the spotlight on the Paithani weave, garnering approval for how perfect it was. Handwoven over 75 days by the artisans of Tulsi Weaves, she made for a formidable picture in the nauvari teamed with a light pink blouse, making the case for how heritage can meet modern-day haute couture.    

Tweaking The Drape

The Sari-torial Legacy Of The Paithani

It's not the first time that the pathani sari has found its place in the spotlight. Several stars from Madhuri Dixit—who's often advocated her love for the garment—to Anushka Sharma, Shraddha Kapoor and a list of others, have lent it their flair. Thanks to a combination of cultural revival, celebrity influence, and new gen sensibilities, it's back in the spotlight now more than ever. Affirms Mohit Rai, stylist and creative director, ITRH, "One of the best things about being Indian is the heritage of textiles that we've inherited—more than thousands of years of this, especially saris that come in so many beautiful forms. Whether it's handwoven or machine-woven, it's important to celebrate these textiles; and the paithani is so royal, it fits right in. It's lovely to see superstars endorse this and wear it to such important events. It was such a good moment for Alia as she wore the pathani on Maharashtra Day." 
The writing is on the wall, err in your wardrobe—here’s why a paithani should find a place there.   

What's Contributed To Its Rise In Popularity  

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Symbol of cultural pride: The paithani marks a sense of revival. The whole homegrown movement that has permeated food, fashion and social culture is a major factor. As people reconnect with their Indian regional identities, traditional weaves like the Maharashtrian pathani —that also find appeal in parts of North India—have gained renewed appreciation.

Celebrities and designers are rooting for it: It's not just the red carpet, Bollywood celebrities and Indian designers are embracing ethnic wear on so many occasions and the pathani is a jewel among the saris, for its hues and weaves. 

Modern styling: Contemporary adaptations—like pairing with trendy blouses, belts, or jackets—have made these saris appealing to Gen Z. They are all for saris with newer elements like stripes, androgynous blazers and belts to create a contrast to the saris.

Sustainable: Handloom weaves and artisanal garments are part of the growing slow fashion movement. Pathani saris, often handwoven, align with eco-conscious consumer values.

Unisex appeal: The androgynous look of Pathani designs—rooted in traditional Pathani suits—resonates with modern fashion's push toward gender-fluid styles.

'It's A Sari That Empowers The Wearer And The Designer'

There's every reason to wear a paithani—bright reds, tangerines, browns, purples and rich greens that meet gold borders and traditional motifs of paisley, flowers, fan, elephant and so on. Rai is all for the beautiful way that Alia wore her sari by the veteran designer duo. "Abu Sandeep are known to do this; they pick the most traditional textiles and add a beautiful modernity to it where they are not just celebrating textiles, but also taking it forward into the future. Obviously you can wear a traditional textile and that's one way to preserve it, but what really works for the business of fashion and for the weavers is that people see it in that contemporary way because they will then be tempted to wear it. With that I feel that the textile has been empowered in a slightly cooler way and the textile is also empowering the designer to explore it in a slightly cooler way. It all goes down to the fact that we are so blessed to be in India and to enjoy this heritage," he says.

Can it be worn anywhere, especially to the workplace? "Absolutely," he shares, "We see so many people do that in offices and not just festivals—sometimes in cotton, pastel hues or woven with another material. In fact, India is the only country where a garment largely considered a national costume, is worn constantly on a daily basis by just anyone—it's celebrated across the board, every day."

About 15 years ago, when we were doing magazines and editorials, we used to create these cool new ways to do it—like wearing a sari with a blazer. It was unheard of then, with the exception of Tarun Tahiliani doing it back in the day. But now you see this all the time—influencers and Gen Z wearing the sari with say, a belt etc. I think it's so cool to style our saris in this modern, contemporary, every everyday way

Styling Tips: How To Wear The Pathani Today 

Mohit Rai shares key styling tips he would give to it:

• Just as Alia did, find a cooler, newer way to drape the paithani, which keeps it exciting. About 15 years ago, when we were doing magazines and editorials, we used to create these cool new ways to do it—like wearing a sari with a blazer. It was unheard of then, with the exception of Tarun Tahiliani doing it back in the day. But now you see this all the time—influencers and Gen Z wearing the sari with say, a belt etc. I think it's so cool to style our saris in this modern, contemporary, everyday way." I think our saris—jamdani, paithani, Maheshwaris—all the textiles we have inherited. It's great to see that the current generation has taken to it and are styling it up in their own way, which is how our heritage is worn. It's contemporised into the daily life of people.

• Wear it with clogs, boots to add a lovely street style element to it. We've seen how Sonam has worn brogues with her look, paired with a cardigan, or hair clip. We don't need to treat it like Indian bridal wear. It's so versatile, you can take it in any context.  

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