Hearts, Ruffles And Gothic Love: How Romanticism Fared At Fashion Month

Love is in the air at fashion week. Well not quite literally, but the sentiment echoes a humble mix of nostalgia, femininity and flirtatious experimentation. For example, take Chloé’s Fall 2025 showcase - it featured an enchanting mix of romanticism and contemporary femininity and boasted of voluminous, exaggerated sleeves, particularly in deep, rich hues that commanded attention. The strong cuffs—structured yet soft—added a sense of strength to the delicate fabrics, such as sheer lace, organza, and light-as-air chiffon.

Fur pompoms—tiny, playful embellishments—danced on bags and belts, while charm-laden handbags clung to models’ hands like keepsakes of past eras. Each accessory echoed the collection’s revivalist dialogue, amplifying Chloé's love affair with femininity. The revival of the Paddington bag, in its updated form, added a touch of iconic allure, serving as a nod to the brand's storied history while remaining entirely modern.

Versace delved into an escapist fantasy with garments that wrapped the wearer in luxurious comfort while exuding a dreamy romanticism. The collection opened with sumptuous, oversized coats—think plush faux furs and velvets—coated in Versace’s signature Medusa motifs. The dresses were adorned in a mix of metallics, rich brocades, and soft silks, offering a sensual experience. One of the standout garments was a velvet suit jacket, tailored to perfection, with plunging necklines and dramatic, trailing sleeves that rippled like waves in motion. The prints, familiar yet refreshed, were boldly graphic—baroque patterns fused with floral elements—emphasising a sense of historical opulence. Romeo Beckham’s appearance in a glittering sequinned top reflected the collection’s underlying playful and youthful edge, balanced by the sensuality in the form of dramatic, plunging cuts and fluid silhouettes.

At Chanel, this undercurrent took on an almost fairytale-like quality. The show was a celebration of intricate, timeless craftsmanship. The Grand Palais, the venue itself, was transformed into a soft, romantic dreamscape, where the massive bow installation at the centre created an aura of anticipation, setting the perfect stage for a collection that echoed the grandeur and elegance of romanticism in its purest form. Gowns, composed of layers upon layers of gossamer tulle, floated effortlessly down the runway. These ethereal pieces were often adorned with delicate floral appliqués and intricate beadwork, adding texture and depth to their delicate sheerness. One standout piece was a sharply tailored jacket adorned with rows of pearls along the collar and cuffs, creating a juxtaposition between strict tailoring and the softness of the pearls. 

Across all four fashion capitals, romanticism appeared in varied yet distinct forms. Valentino embraced an ultra-feminine approach, with flowing chiffon dresses in candy hues, adorned with soft floral motifs and delicate lace inserts. Dior, on the other hand, played with proportion, experimenting with voluminous skirts that were paired with structured, almost sculptural tops, mixing traditional couture techniques with modern sensibility. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson’s collection was imbued with a quieter, introspective romanticism - think delicate silk slip dresses in soft pastel shades, their simplicity elevated by unexpected sculptural detailing. Even the modern, avant-garde approaches from Balenciaga and Givenchy carried a romantic undercurrent softened by layers of sheer fabric and lace inserts, creating a subtle play between hard and soft, modern and classic.

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