Inside The Judith Leiber Legacy Of The World’s Most Conversation-Creating Bags

A Judith Leiber accessory is like a beautiful recipe—a bushel of charm, topped with a dash of whimsy and a generous sprinkling of shimmer—slow-cooked to a style that’s only made perfect by the wearer. French fries that exude a golden glow, fish-eyed creatures with coloured crystals, colourful cupcakes that sit pretty on the wrist, ice-cream with shiny baubles, a gleaming stack of currency notes… we could go on and on! It’s the evening bag that almost isn’t, and that, perhaps, has been Judith Leiber’s greatest success story. After all, who would have thought such playful accessories would be so coveted when the brand first came into the spotlight in 1963?

The jewel-encrusted minaudières, however, are ubiquitous today, from red carpets to museums, and in the arms of first ladies and royalty alike. More than just being eye candy, each purse carries its own story. In conversation with ELLE India, Jana Matheson, EVP, chief creative office, Judith Leiber Couture, talks craftsmanship, inspiration and the drive to innovate that’s embedded into the brand’s DNA.

ELLE: You've turned the idea of the evening bag on it's head. How did you achieve that?

JANA MATHESON (JM): I’m not entirely sure if it’s a complete transformation or a continuation of invention. What I do know is this: women of style always need a special bag to elevate their evening looks. During my 15-year tenure designing the Judith Leiber Couture collection, my focus has been to not only carry on the legacy of craftsmanship and art that Judith Leiber pioneered, but also to continue building and designing swoon-worthy, conversation-starting pieces that anchor or complement a beautiful evening ensemble.

 ELLE: Having apprenticed with some of fashion’s biggest names, from ralph lauren to michael kors, what have been your most memorable moments?

(JM): A few things that my mentors have had in common, aside from being incredibly talented visionaries, are that they are kind, generous, and a true joy to work with. They are also designers, which means they know their craft, from draping to sketching. They built their businesses on design and best-in-class,original products.

We don’t see as much of that today, as design houses increasingly place tastemakers or figureheads in lead positions. Ralph, with his unwavering vision for an entire lifestyle and no time for lunch breaks, meant many multitasking design meetings while he ate. Michael, with his concise feedback, love for double-faced cashmere, and extreme distaste for the colour grape purple, brought infectious energy to every room.

ELLE: The sparkly minaudières are said to have been born out of a happy accident. Tell us more.

(JM): The very first minaudière to feature crystals was the Chatelaine, designed by Mrs Leiber in 1967. The finished pieces arrived from Italy with slight damage. Rather than return the entire shipment and lose the order, Mrs. Leiber decided to embellish the pieces by strategically placing small crystals to mask the imperfections. That brilliant innovation became the foundation of an empire. 

ELLE: Judith Leiber bags are often described as collectable art objects with a sense of playfulness. How do you go about conceptualising each piece?

(JM): Like most fashion houses, I design four collections a year. Each season begins with something I want to say. I reflect on the history of the clutches I’ve designed and the stories I’ve already told. Then I turn to my sketchbooks—they’re full of creative seeds just waiting for their spotlight.

One of my early litmus tests is: does this piece make me smile? Does it spark a laugh when I describe it to the team? My goal is always to create delight, conversation, and surprise. I absolutely love it when buyers or customers say, ‘I can’t believe that’s a handbag. How did you do that?’ And, of course, I’m constantly influenced by the world around me, whether it’s my travels, a museum exhibition, a red-carpet moment, or even a beautifully dressed stranger cycling past me in New York. You never know when inspiration will strike.

ELLE: In a world leaning toward quiet luxury, judith leiber makes a bold, maximalist statement. How does the brand’s identity remain relevant and desirable?

(JM): The beautiful thing about fashion is its duality. One moment it’s whispering quiet luxury, the next it’s shouting maximalism. What’s constant is that our collectors love both. Judith Leiber pieces are coveted collectables. Our consumer isn’t always driven by trends. She’s a collector: bold, witty, with a deep admiration for art and design. She has a fierce sense of style and collects with passion. 

ELLE: How does India inspire you?

(JM): My father was born in India and spent his early years living throughout the country. The rich culture, therefore, became a significant part of my own household growing up, even as I was raised in Southern California. From the cuisine and decorative arts, to embroidery techniques and regional designs, which I learnt about later in my career, India has been a constant influence. My love for rich colours and extraordinary decorative details, and of course, the shimmering bling of India, are always infused into my design.

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