The Runway Rundown: Maria Grazia Chiuri Opens New Chapter At Fendi

The Wednesday of Milan Fashion Week marked a major homecoming for Maria Grazia Chiuri, who made her much-anticipated debut at Fendi. Joining the house has meant a return to her Rome hometown, but also to the brand where she started her career; she originally joined Fendi aged 24, staying for 10 years before making the jump to Valentino in 1999. Fast forward to 2026 and Chiuri, one of a handful of female designers operating at her level in the industry, is in the Fendi driving seat.

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Chiuri — who spent the past decade at the creative helm of Dior womenswear, turning the French couture house into one of fashion's big juggernauts — crafted a simple tagline for her first Fendi collection: 'Less I, more us.' The message, emblazoned down the runway in both English and Italian, was a nod to her own way of working, while also celebrating the approach of Fendi’s five founding sisters.

'It was important for me to start with the five sisters,' Chiuri said at a press preview. 'They wanted to move the brand into the future. My question is how I continue that.'

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