Nature And History Are My Greatest Inspirations, Says Varun Bahl

Couturier Varun Bahl has never failed to make a statement with his exceptional creativity and visionary spirit. He has been consistently crafting timeless couture fantasies and visually sumptuous runway spectacles for the last two decades. More often than not, punctuated with blooms, appliqués and botanical motifs, Varun Bahl’s artistic universe has been synonymous with extravagance, embellishments and romance. Evoking painterly aesthetics from the Art Nouveau period, his creations have stayed relevant since the label was launched in 2004. Clocking in 20 years is quite a milestone when one is creating ready-to-wear, couture and menswear season after season.

Twenty Years Of Varun Bahl

“Designing across couture, prêt, and menswear is both exhilarating and challenging, as each line has its own distinct energy. I do encounter creative blocks at times, but I’ve learned to embrace them as part of the process,” Bahl says. When he feels stuck, he turns to nature and art for inspiration, allowing the beauty around him to spark ideas. Taking a step back to recharge often leads to unexpected breakthroughs, helping him reconnect with his vision and infuse fresh energy into his work. When Bahl first launched his design house, he harboured a vision of creating something unique that would resonate with people. “While I was in the process of doing what I always dreamt of doing, I didn’t fully grasp the journey ahead. Each year has been a blend of challenges and triumphs, and it’s heartening to see how far we’ve come. Success reflects passion, perseverance, and the incredible people who have joined me on this journey,” he shares.

There have been countless moments that have shaped his journey, but last year’s show in Srinagar, Kashmir, was one for the books. “It was the region’s first major fashion event in 40 years, and to me, it was incredibly personal. My father had lived there, and being able to reconnect with that part of my heritage was profoundly moving. It reminded me that with a shared vision and unwavering support from my team and clients, we can truly overcome any obstacle,” he recalls. This experience taught him the power of resilience and adaptability, deepening his commitment to his craft and the stories he tells through fashion.

Bahl cherishes his archive as it narrates a story of growth and evolution. Each piece holds memories and lessons. While nostalgia can be daunting, he sees it as a source of inspiration. In his new collection, he has embraced upcycling by reimagining past designs and materials, allowing them to evolve into something fresh and relevant. “This approach celebrates not just the journey we’ve taken but also the beauty of transformation and the future of our brand,” he says. The essence of romanticism and femininity remains at the core of his eponymous brand, but his expression has evolved. “Initially, I focused on traditional aesthetics, but over time, I’ve embraced a modern twist that blends innovation with tradition. What hasn’t changed is our commitment to craftsmanship and storytelling; every collection is still deeply personal,” he says.

Blooms, Art Nouveau, Rococo influences, and vibrant motifs return to his mood board season after season. “Nature and history are my greatest inspiration. I aim to capture the beauty of these influences while ensuring that each piece feels fresh and relevant, connecting the past with the present.” he shares. While a lot of his contemporaries have started their bridge-to-luxury labels backed by corporates, he hasn’t jumped onto the bandwagon yet. “I’ve prioritised creative freedom and authenticity over commercial partnerships. While collaborating with big corporations can offer resources, I believe it’s crucial to stay true to my vision. I’m exploring partnerships that align with our values without compromising our artistic integrity,” he says.

Since 2020, Bahl has been collaborating with Karan Johar on a commercially successful menswear prêt label. “Working with Karan, who possesses an undeniable spark of creativity and a deep commitment to excellence, has been amazing. There is an unspoken chemistry that makes a partnership truly special, and I believe in the magic of mutual respect and a shared vision. As for new collaborations, let’s just say there are whispers of exciting possibilities in the air. The right opportunity often finds its way to me when I least expect it, so we’ll see what unfolds,” he says.

Bridal couture is an important part of Bahl’s repertoire. According to him, sustainability is not just a trend; it’s essential for the future of fashion, especially in bridal wear. “I envision a beautiful evolution where eco-friendly materials and practices become the norm,” he shares. Bahl has helped craft dream ensembles for hundreds of contemporary brides in the last 20 years. “Bridal identity is becoming more about individuality rather than tradition alone. Today’s brides want to express their unique stories through their attire. I work closely with each bride to understand her vision and lifestyle, blending cultural significance with modern elements to create a personalised look that truly reflects who she is,” he signs off.

Read the full story on ELLE India’s new issue, or download your digital copy via Magzter.