The Sartorial Legacy Of Bhopal's Begums

As you step through the stately entrance of the Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal, you’re greeted by a formidable portrait of Shah Jahan Begum. Draped in ceremonial regalia—a sash, a cape adorned with badges and medals, and a bejewelled crown topped with a feathered plume— she epitomises 19th-century power dressing. If you linger a moment longer, you realise every element of her attire asserts authority and offers a glimpse into the sartorial splendour of the begums of Bhopal.

Women Who Changed The Course Of History 

The story of Bhopal is intertwined with the story of its women, none of whom were content playing second fiddle to the men. Take the Gond queen Kamlapati, for instance, who was a skilled archer, horsewoman and warrior. When her husband was poisoned by his nephew, the queen avenged his death and safeguarded her kingdom by enlisting the services of the mercenary Mohammed Khan. It was his dynasty that would go on to rule the state, but it’s the reign of the feisty begums that truly stands out. The story began with a bang—quite literally. In 1819, a young Nawab Nazar Mohammaed Khan was accidentally shot in the head by his eightyear-old cousin. In cinematic style, his widow, Qudsia begum, took off her veil at his funeral and declared herself regent up until her daughter, Sikander begum, came of age. To fend off claimants to the throne and assert their authority, the begums proudly referred to themselves as ‘nawabs’ and mastered skills like sword fighting, archery, and horseback riding—and naturally, they had to look the part.

Power Dressing For The Ages

Going through the collection of archival photographs at the palace truly reveals how the sartorial language of the begums became a powerful tool of selfexpression. The women showcased their evolved mindset through a distinctive style of dressing that broke away from convention. As Niloufer Khan, family member and director of Jehan Numa Palace, puts it, the attire was modest yet regal, exuding an aura of authority and grace. “By combining Persian and Turkish elements with traditional North Indian styles, they created a look that balanced elegance with practicality. This blending of cultures in their wardrobe symbolised their cosmopolitan outlook, while the understated sophistication of their attire conveyed both respect for tradition and a progressive attitude.” No doubt, the begums’ active lifestyles profoundly influenced their clothing choices. In an era when women were often confined to the indoors, they embraced pursuits like polo, horseback riding, hunting and martial arts, opting for fitted tunics and tailored trousers that seamlessly blended functionality with style.

Fit For A Queen

Imagine one of these begums filming a ‘get ready with me’ reel a century-anda-half ago. Here’s how we imagine it might have unfolded. Khan describes their typical attire: long, flowing garments like angarkhas paired with shararas, complemented by elegantly draped dupattas to maintain modesty. The regents also favoured richly coloured silks, velvets and brocades adorned with intricate yet understated gold and silver embroidery. “This combination created a look that was both dignified and stylish, allowing them to carry a strong presence in both public and private spheres,” says Khan. The begums also had a penchant for zardozi—a craft that flourished under their patronage and was used to adorn everything from dupattas to accessories. “Floral motifs, inspired by Persian and Mughal art, were commonly used, symbolising beauty and femininity while maintaining a sense of regal authority,” Khan points out.

Bejewelled Symbols Of Status 

Their ensembles were, of course, incomplete without jewels. One would typically associate ostentatious jewellery and accessories with a royal household. However, for these begums, it wasn’t about excesses; it was about the details. Their accessories, including brooches, heirloom rings, and layered necklaces, were thoughtfully selected to convey status with subtlety. “Each piece carried symbolic weight subtly indicating authority and heritage,” says Khan. Emeralds and pearls set in gold often passed down through generations and became signatures of their understated elegance. They often wore earrings, rings, and bracelets to carefully complement their outfits without overwhelming them.

Not Without My Batua 

An account of the begums’ style would be incomplete without a mention of the iconic Bhopali batua. This small yet ornate drawstring purse was the perfect blend of elegance and utility. Traditionally handmade with rich fabrics like velvet, silk and brocade and embellished with intricate zardozi or beadwork, the batua became a staple accessory for the royal women of Bhopal. The what’s-in-your-bag essentials of yore featured paan, mints, ittars, and trinkets, ensuring the begums always had their necessities at hand. The women were also active patrons of the arts and nurtured crafts like zardozi, weaving and embroidery, ensuring that they not only survived but thrived. They championed women’s empowerment by providing funding and creating spaces for local women to master these skills. This not only helped preserve these traditional crafts but also offered women financial independence in an era of limited opportunities. A memorable family anecdote brings the begums’ style legacy alive. It features Sikander begum known for her spirited nature and tomboyish style. She’s also famously known to have accidentally fired a pistol—an incident that quickly became part of family lore. “She was often seen wearing more practical attire, opting for clothing that allowed freedom of movement—a stark contrast to the traditional garments expected of her,” notes Khan. The story, in many ways, is symbolic of the strength that defined the Bhopal begums, who unabashedly expressed their independence and individuality in an era where such traits were rare and revolutionary.

 

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