ELLE Discovers: How Niyati Chheda Created Jewellery Into A Sculptural Playground

We're constantly on the lookout for bold voices and distinctive signatures—especially those that push the envelope of Indian creativity. In our new series, ELLE Discovers, we spotlight homegrown labels carving out their own niche. Enter Niyati Chheda—a young jewellery designer whose pieces are as sculptural as they are soulful. Her work, often molten, organic and arrestingly detailed, reflects a deep respect for material, process, and narrative. I first came across her brand Nenikaar through a friend, Chaitanya. Curious and impressed, I reached out. What followed was a warm, meandering chat about creativity, craft, and why making something with your hands still matters.

ELLE: Tell us a little bit about yourself and how the brand came to life.

Niyati Chheda (NC): My mum has always been quite creative—she used to decorate a lot, and her projects often involved beads and things like that. I must’ve been around seven or eight when I first got involved. Fast-forward to COVID, we were going through some of her old things, and we found the beads again. It turned into a spontaneous creative day, just the two of us making little things, like how kids do. What began as a fun activity slowly grew. My mum suggested we try selling a few pieces and donate the proceeds. It was during a tough time, and I wasn’t doing much else beyond college. I was hesitant at first, but once I started and saw the response, I just kept going and growing.

ELLE: In your opinion, what sets your brand apart from other jewellery labels in a similar space?

NC: I think it’s the constant shifting. I’m not fixed to one territory. I started with beaded jewellery but then moved into soldering. I kept experimenting, kept learning. That adaptability, the willingness to evolve. That’s what makes the brand stand out. I’m also not restricted to brass or base metals. I’m looking to explore more materials and techniques. It’s all very fluid.

ELLE: Working with metals can be both technical and expressive. What’s your experience been like?

NC: It was all very new to me at one point. I took a formal course in manufacturing and production because I wanted to honour the traditional methods. That’s when I moved to Jaipur. I had incredible professors, they were all industry professionals turned teachers and are still in touch with me. They taught us how to hammer, beat, shape... everything. The whole process reminded me of ceramics, it’s very hands-on. First we worked on physical changes, like hammering and shaping. Then came chemical changes—heating, melting, casting. It was like all the science we learnt in school suddenly made sense. Ductility, malleability, all of it came to life.

ELLE: What’s the best and the most challenging part of doing business in India right now?

NC: The best and the worst thing is the same: the sheer volume of people. The audience is massive, which means the potential is huge, but it also means finding your people takes strategy. You need to stand out. I’ve always approached jewellery differently, and I think that’s been recognised. Maximalism isn’t easy for everyone to pull off, but I’ve been lucky to find a community that resonates with what I do.

ELLE: There’s a distinct narrative style in your work, even on social media. What’s your storytelling process like?

NC: Honestly, I draw inspiration from everything around me—nature, travel, conversations. My mum’s a travel enthusiast too, so we collect a lot on our trips. I often use those elements in my sand-casting process. It’s all very organic. My most recent collection, Metamorphosis, was inspired by Jaipur, the murals, walls, jali work. The level of detail and the sense of permanence in that architecture really moved me. I try to echo that idea that everything around us is already immortal. My work is an attempt to honour that.

ELLE: Do you take on custom orders? What’s the quirkiest one you’ve done?

NC: I do, and the quirkiest was definitely a large lighter case, it weighed over 100 grams. That might not sound like much, but in your hand, it felt significant. It had bows and a real presence. I sold it to someone else in the creative field—she runs a thrift store. We hit it off, and the whole process ended with a great piece and a new friend.

ELLE: Dream celebrity collaboration. Who would truly do justice to your work?

NC: Erykah Badu. That whole bohemian but bold vibe, where the jewellery isn’t just an accessory but a statement. I love that. It should take up space, make noise, and be unapologetic. I see it, grills and all.

ELLE: What are you currently working on?

NC: My latest obsession is with immortalisation in metal. I recently cast my own fingers into rings—every detail preserved. It’s deeply personal, and I think a beautiful way to treat jewellery as more than adornment. I’ve started taking sessions with clients who want something similar, their own rings cast from their hands. It’s a unique kind of fingerprint, really.

ELLE: Three young up-and-coming brands you’d like to lend a shoutout to.

NC: Yes sure! Not Just Bijoux (@notjustbijoux). Krude By Krushnali (@krude_krushnali). Pearl Boga (@vegoneat).

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