New Names, New Games: The Designer Debuts Are Here

Fashion’s game of musical chairs has been dramatic enough to rival reality TV. Designers leaving, surprise appointments dropping, Instagram leaks fueling endless speculation — safe to say, the past few months have been pure chaos. But SS26 is finally here, bringing the moment we’ve all been waiting for: the debuts. New York has already set the stage, and now all eyes turn to Milan and Paris, where the big guns are about to step into the spotlight. Think of it as the industry’s ultimate opening night — and trust us, the lineup is nothing short of star-studded. 

The first major shake-up hit just yesterday in Milan on September 23, as Demna showcased his debut collection for Gucci online. His exit from Balenciaga in July was the kind of fashion-world earthquake you could feel across continents, and Gucci wasted no time scooping him up. This debut was poised to be a blockbuster show, and let’s just say he delivered. Social media is already buzzing with whispers of a Tom Ford–era revival, thanks to Demna posting vintage Gucci references on Instagram. Think fur coats and sexy sheers nodding to Ford, feathers and furs referring to Michele, all blended with Demna’s own touch. Gucci’s new chapter has officially begun, and it’s impossible to look away!

The very next morning, September 24, it was Simone Bellotti’s at Jil Sander. Known for his razor-sharp tailoring and years spent at Gucci, Bellotti steps into a house synonymous with minimalism. Following the departure of Luke and Lucie Meier, his challenge is to restore Jil’s pristine restraint while making it feel relevant again. The result? A clean, precision-driven collection — a quiet counterpart to the louder debuts happening this week.

Two days later, on September 26, Versace made its move with Dario Vitale. After nearly three decades of Donatella, this is nothing short of seismic. Vitale, who has previously worked at Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta, embraced intimacy for his debut — no overblown spectacle, but a smaller-scale event “honouring the past and envisioning the future.” We’ve already had a sneak peek thanks to Julia Roberts wearing one of his looks at the Venice Film Festival. It’s clear he’s balancing Versace’s signature sensual DNA with a touch of modern polish.

Milan continues to be busy, with Louise Trotter showing her first Bottega Veneta collection on September 28. After a stint at Carven, she steps into a house that has built its reputation on craftsmanship and cult-worthy accessories. The question isn’t whether the bags will be a hit — they always are — but how she’ll shape Bottega’s future in ready-to-wear. Expect leather, expect polish, and expect fashion insiders dissecting every detail.

Next stop: Paris, where the calendar is practically bursting with debuts. Jonathan Anderson kicks things off with his women’s debut at Dior on October 1. Already at the helm of Dior Men, Anderson knows how to balance conceptual flair with commercial pull. His new challenge? Reinterpreting Dior’s iconic femininity, from the cinched Bar jacket to couture romance — all without losing his own offbeat touch.

The following day, October 2 at noon, Miguel Castro Freitas takes the stage at Mugler. Known for sculptural, body-conscious silhouettes, Mugler is a house that thrives on spectacle, and Freitas seems like the perfect match to keep that fire burning. Expect a theatrical runway, dramatic cuts, and a play between sharpness and seduction.

On October 3, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez bring their New York cool to Loewe. The Proenza Schouler, celebrated for their craftsmanship and urban polish, face a different kind of challenge: expanding the playful artistry built under Jonathan Anderson. With Loewe already riding high, this is less about saving the house and more about reinventing its next chapter.

The night of October 4 belongs to Pierpaolo Piccioli, who takes over Balenciaga. It’s the clash of aesthetics the whole fashion world is buzzing about: Valentino’s king of romance stepping into the gritty, confrontational world Demna left behind. Will Piccioli soften Balenciaga with poetry, or will he discover a darker edge within himself? Either way, this show is guaranteed to be one of the most talked-about moments of the season.

That same week, Duran Lantink brings Jean Paul Gaultier back into ready-to-wear with his debut on October 5. Known for upcycling, experimentation, and bold, gender-fluid designs, Lantink is the perfect catalyst to inject new energy into a house built on irreverence and rebellion. Expect mischief, expect provocation, and most of all — expect fun.

Finally, the season’s most anticipated finale: Matthieu Blazy at CHANEL, showing on October 6 at the Grand Palais. CHANEL isn’t just a brand; it’s an institution, and Blazy’s appointment is one of the boldest gambles of SS26. His time at Bottega proved he can do refinement and craft like few others, but the question remains: how will that translate to tweed, pearls, and the iconic codes that define CHANEL? As the last word of Paris Fashion Week, his show promises to leave the entire industry holding its breath. 

So, what should we expect from SS26 as a whole? Some debuts will tease, others will reinvent completely. A few designers will lean heavily on heritage, while others will aim to rewrite the story completely. But together, they signal a turning point: a new generation of voices stepping into some of fashion’s most powerful houses. But let’s not forget — one collection is never enough to judge. It takes time to adapt, unlearn, and learn the house codes of these storied luxury houses. This season isn’t about playing it safe — it’s about big swings, and the thrill of watching them unfold live. 

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The 'Guccification' of Gucci: Inside Demna's Debut